Moving to Sacramento - need partner/s

J. Albers wrote: Yup. What the guy holding the beer said. I would add that IMHO, there are only a few trad leads at Consumnes worth doing (the ones that are good are nice though). Most guidebooks give time and distance from Sacramento as a reference; if you are coming from Davis, just add 15 miles and 20 minutes to your trip (unless the I-80 causeway traffic is bad). Welcome to Davis Liz.

I kinda like being known as the guy holding the beer ;). It's a fairly good way to spot me at the crag too.

I still need to get on those Gutenberger Wall routes, they look like they might be an adventure. True on the few good trad leads at Cosumnes comment. It's a great place to get a feel for granite though... Testpiece, Dinkum, as well as a 5.7 to the right of the formation strike me as all emininently leadable and moderate (5.9 or under). Unconquerable would be good with big gear. This time of year I'd do as the Sacramento/Bay Area herd do and get to Lover's Leap if I were looking for easy trad.

Old Custer wrote: I kinda like being known as the guy holding the beer ;)

Yeah well where I grew up, that nickname would have been a badge of honor!! ....I mean beer is practically a sanctioned sport in Wisconsin.

J. Albers wrote: Yeah well where I grew up, that nickname would have been a badge of honor!! ....I mean beer is practically a sanctioned sport in Wisconsin.

Nice!

I would like to add the asterisk that I usually don't drink from bottles at the crag. I was free soloing that bottled beer, deep into the no fall zone. Don't try that at home, kids, it takes years of bitch slapping your liver to adapt to the challenges of the Drinkharder crew.

Old Custer wrote: Nice! I would like to add the asterisk that I usually don't drink from bottles at the crag. I was free soloing that bottled beer, deep into the no fall zone. Don't try that at home, kids, it takes years of bitch slapping your liver to adapt to the challenges of the Drinkharder crew.

Liver?!?! You still have a liver? No, no, no.... ALL the pros have portable dialysis machines. What do you think all those cheese hats really are? Functional and stylish.

Great to see a strong climbing community here in sactown! I just move here for the summer and would love to explore tahoe and te sierras. I climb trad and sport. I tore my pulley 4 months ago so am weak but generally climb in the 5.10 5.11 area. Love long alpine routes of all levels. Would love to just get out doors. Hit me up If you'd like to climb. It sounds like I'll run into you'all at the gym during the week.

Sweet!

Sam

J. Albers wrote: To answer your question Adam, the Tuesday/Thursday "regular" crowd are in there on those days because they have a specific training regiman that fits in with climbing outside on the weekends. If you get outside regularly on the weekends and are working projects, then you generally need a rest day on Monday and Friday, i.e. rest before a redpoint day (Friday) and rest after two days of hard outdoor climbing (Monday). Are there people in PWs all days of the week (including weekends), sure, but if you are trying to get tuned into the crowd that spends a lot of time outside, then you are much better off coming to PWs on Tues/Thurs. Make sense? ....oh, and I am mainly referring to route climbers...I don't know what kind of training schedule the pebble pinchers are on...

Wow, glad Im on a different training schedule. seems like the self-righteous douchebags are in there on Tuesdays and Thursdays. I hardly think you can categorize yourselves as the only people in the gym with a specific training regimen that go out on the weekends, seeing as how the folks I generally train with on different nights pull hard and go outside on the weekends to work projects as well, both routes and boulders. Just saying, but whatever you need to help you feel elitist. We're all in there for the same reason.

AdamB wrote: Wow, glad Im on a different training schedule. seems like the self-righteous douchebags are in there on Tuesdays and Thursdays. I hardly think you can categorize yourselves as the only people in the gym with a specific training regimen that go out on the weekends, seeing as how the folks I generally train with on different nights pull hard and go outside on the weekends to work projects as well, both routes and boulders. Just saying, but whatever you need to help you feel elitist. We're all in there for the same reason.

Super defensiveness is always classy ;).

J. Albers wrote: Liver?!?! You still have a liver? No, no, no.... ALL the pros have portable dialysis machines. What do you think all those cheese hats really are? Functional and stylish.

Dialysis is for kidneys and liver does regenerate. Nevermind no one cares anyway about their liver or kidneys here .....so it seems....

Old Custer wrote: Super defensiveness is always classy ;).

Hey, all I'm saying is it's pretty absurd to imply that the only time you're going to meet other climbers in a climbing gym is on specific nights. I mean, c'mon.

AdamB wrote: Hey, all I'm saying is it's pretty absurd to imply that the only time you're going to meet other climbers in a climbing gym is on specific nights. I mean, c'mon.

That's cool, I'd just not burn bridges with people at your own gym. Especially ones who sound like good climbing partners. I'm sure all is well though.

Old Custer wrote: That's cool, I'd just not burn bridges with people at your own gym. Especially ones who sound like good climbing partners. I'm sure all is well though.

Im not worried about it, but thanks Dr. Ruth.

and now back to your regularly scheduled program...

Justin and Sam~ Def hit me up...will be looking to get out as soon as I set foot in CA!

Sounds like I will be frequenting the local climbing gyms~ so if anyone is ever looking for an indoor climbing partner too~ let me know!

Any recommendations as to the best guide book?

J. Albers~ where in WI are you from? I'm a Wisconsinite as well~

Tele Liz wrote:and now back to your regularly scheduled program... Justin and Sam~ Def hit me up...will be looking to get out as soon as I set foot in CA! Sounds like I will be frequenting the local climbing gyms~ so if anyone is ever looking for an indoor climbing partner too~ let me know! Any recommendations as to the best guide book? J. Albers~ where in WI are you from? I'm a Wisconsinite as well~

Best guidebook to where? It highly depends, even if you specify. Starting with Supertopo guidebooks (of which there are many) will put you right on the classics along with the rest of the conga line ;).

I'd say to start exploring the scene and climb with some folks to see what they're doing before you buy guidebooks you may not even need. I wouldn't necessarily hold out for people just in my area for partners either, you can always meet people at the crag or put out partner posts. Sometimes the clique that regularly hits the crag is not "open" to newcomers and you're stuck with gym rats who don't climb outside much.

Anyone want to climb at Pipeworks around 2:00pm today? Contact me if you do!

AdamB wrote: Im not worried about it, but thanks Dr. Ruth.

Wow. You're a real peach Adam!!! I really appreciate you calling me a douche bag elitist!!! Thanks buddy!

Just FYI, the difference between your climbing ability and that of me and my partners is not why I will be sure to skip interacting with you at the gym; rather, I will be avoiding you because in less than two pages of thread, you have called me a douche bag and you have twice ran your mouth at the lovable, beer swilling extraordinaire Mr. Custer (who was being helpful to the OP I might add).

And by the way Adam, I have been climbing at Pipeworks as a "regular" for 8 years and of the 20-30 other folks who I also consider to be regulars, I would say at least 5-10 of them have been climbing at Pipeworks since the day it opened. These are people that have been part of the Sac and Northern CA climbing community for 20+ years. And yeah, they climb on various different schedules from time to time, but in general, they climb there on Tues./Thurs. In general, these folks are some of the nicest people around and moreover, they just happen to have knowledge of climbing areas (both published and unpublished) that make them folks that I would want to get to know if I had just moved to Sac. Perhaps this is why I suggested that people new to the area show up on Tues./Thurs., no?

...but it appears as though you wouldn't want to meet any of those people, because otherwise you wouldn't have burned that bridge by running your mouth and calling people names.

Tele Liz wrote:and now back to your regularly scheduled program... Justin and Sam~ Def hit me up...will be looking to get out as soon as I set foot in CA! Sounds like I will be frequenting the local climbing gyms~ so if anyone is ever looking for an indoor climbing partner too~ let me know! Any recommendations as to the best guide book? J. Albers~ where in WI are you from? I'm a Wisconsinite as well~

Hi Liz,

Sorry, I missed your question until just now. I was born and raised in Madison, though I have a real affection for the northern part of the state as well. What about yourself? As far as your guidebook question, if you ever make it into the gym and you see me, just come bug me because I would be happy to answer any questions that you might have (you should be able to figure out who I am by some of the pics in my profile).

Also, just FYI, I noticed that you mentioned that you are living in Davis. There is also a gym in Davis and there are some nice folks there (some of them frequent both the Davis gym and Pipeworks). However, I still commute to the gym in Sac because the facility is so much better.

J. Albers wrote: Wow. You're a real peach Adam!!! I really appreciate you calling me a douche bag elitist!!! Thanks buddy! Just FYI, the difference between your climbing ability and that of me and my partners is not why I will be sure to skip interacting with you at the gym; rather, I will be avoiding you because in less than two pages of thread, you have called me a douche bag and you have twice ran your mouth at the lovable, beer swilling extraordinaire Mr. Custer (who was being helpful to the OP I might add). And by the way Adam, I have been climbing at Pipeworks as a "regular" for 8 years and of the 20-30 other folks who I also consider to be regulars, I would say at least 5-10 of them have been climbing at Pipeworks since the day it opened. These are people that have been part of the Sac and Northern CA climbing community for 20+ years. And yeah, they climb on various different schedules from time to time, but in general, they climb there on Tues./Thurs. In general, these folks are some of the nicest people around and moreover, they just happen to have knowledge of climbing areas (both published and unpublished) that make them folks that I would want to get to know if I had just moved to Sac. Perhaps this is why I suggested that people new to the area show up on Tues./Thurs., no? ...but it appears as though you wouldn't want to meet any of those people, because otherwise you wouldn't have burned that bridge by running your mouth and calling people names.

Wow, you sure told me. How will I recover from this crushing blow to my social circle? Maybe I'll start going to Granite Arch... oh wait, I don't give a fuck. Whew, crisis averted.

Oh, and if you feel like my comment about you being a douchebag elitist is off base, telling people that they're missing out by burning bridges with you and the folks you climb with comes off as pretty elitist. And douchy. So I'll stand by that. Recommence with your whining below if need be.

Old Custer wrote: Nice! I would like to add the asterisk that I usually don't drink from bottles at the crag. I was free soloing that bottled beer, deep into the no fall zone. Don't try that at home, kids, it takes years of bitch slapping your liver to adapt to the challenges of the Drinkharder crew.

Werd...

I'll bottle you at the crag if I see you with glass, and I can because I'll have glass, I don't even care... Drinkharder

edit: Damn slap fight, Jalbers and adamb should gang up on that scoundrel Old mustard... take it out to the playground.

AdamB wrote: Wow, you sure told me. How will I recover from this crushing blow to my social circle? Maybe I'll start going to Granite Arch... oh wait, I don't give a fuck. Whew, crisis averted. Oh, and if you feel like my comment about you being a douchebag elitist is off base, telling people that they're missing out by burning bridges with you and the folks you climb with comes off as pretty elitist. And douchy. So I'll stand by that. Recommence with your whining below if need be.

Good, I'm glad you stand by the fact that you are acting like a childish a**hole. If you really think that my intent in writing any of my posts was anything other than trying to be helpful, then you need to develop better reading skills. Have a good night!! Hugs.

J. Albers wrote: Good, I'm glad you stand by the fact that you are acting like a childish a**hole. If you really think that my intent in writing any of my posts was anything other than trying to be helpful, then you need to develop better reading skills. Have a good night!! Hugs.

Correct, this is the sort of whining to which I was referring. Well done.