Crag pack

I currently use a 50L pack to get all of my gear for a day of climbing to the base of the route. Currently this works well, as up until now I've done single or a few pitch climb, rap down get my pack and then move on to the next area.

But I'm starting to want to do longer routes like Snake Dike for example. This type of climb puts the down climb no where nere the base of the route. I'm thinking that climbing with a 50L pack would be a pain in the a$$.

So what to other climbiners do? I would think that a smaller pack would be handy on the climb to hold a layer, water and a snack, but too small to get all my gear to the route. Where as a bigger pack would get all my gear to the route but be too big for the actual climb.

Thoughts?

Either one 15-25L pack between the two of you or 2 10-20L packs. Hike in w/ harness on. Backpack the rope(s). Put as much of the gear as you can in the pack(s) for the approach, everything else goes on your harness.

My typical setup for routes of that size would be this:

12 liter pack w/ 2 liter bladder full of water. My climbing shoes and waterproof layer inside, along w/ some bars, cheese, maybe some of the rack - whatever I can put in there until it's full. Then carry the rack on a shoulder sling and my harness (which is on) and my partner carries the rope back pack style (or vise versa, depending on what my partner likes to carry). Once I get to the base of the route I rack up and put my approach shoes in the pack.

Sometimes I stash some food/water/chocolate milk somewhere on the approach so I can eat in on the way back to camp/car.

This has worked for me on approaches up to three hours. I don't really see myself carrying any larger of a pack on routes that don't involve a bivy or ice/snow.

Edited to add that I don't know how big my pack is. It holds a 2l bladder, approach shoes, a Marmot Precip, a hat, sunglasses and some food. I bought it for $10 off someone on this site. I also ride to work on my bike every day with this pack. It's probably the best $10 I've ever spent.

no pack or a 12-25L pack depending on the conditions ...

learn to hike in with yr harness on, the rope coiled on yr partner (who has no pack or a very small one) and split the rack onto yr harnesses and shoulder sling

almost everyone ive seen here who climbs with a 40+L pack on serious multi (10+ pitches) in good conditions climbs hella slow ... these people often get benighted

As others have said, wear your harness on the approach. Tie your rope on your back (have your partner carry the rack.) Use this pack for your water, shoes, jacket and food:

rei.com/search?query=flash+18

And read these endless posts about the same subject. :)

mountainproject.com/v/what-…

I can't imagine needing, much less carrying full, a 50L pack for any climb. And my standard rack is doubles from finger-tips to bigger-than-fists.

Start by paring down what you carry to fit into a 30L-40L pack. Next, take a look at the pack suggestions made up thread, and figure out what items can live in the pack during the climb, and what you'll need on your person during the climb, and hike in already outfitted for the climb.

Also, try making your partner carry either the rack or the rope next time. You'd be surprised how much room that'll open up in your pack.