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Don't bother with this one.

Petsfed 00 · · Snohomish, WA · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 989

The original post contained this qualifier:

Derek W wrote:So this makes more sense if talking about a clove-hitched rope or a purcell with the dynamic component,

which received these responses:

(from Yarp)

"No amount of arguing or questioning will make a personal tether safer than just tying in with the rope"

and (from John Strand)

"I'm with yap- you have a rope ? it's pretty pricey ? USE IT"

and (from Scott O)

"With a static attachment like a PAS, extending your attachment only increases the force generated from a fall.

Tie in with the fucking climbing rope."

So again, what is wrong with reading comprehension these days? nbrown gave the only useful and substantial response, the rest of you said "PAS thread? Time to rip on some n00bs!"

Evan Sanders · · Westminster, CO · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 140
Ellenor Stone wrote:I tie in with rope and pas ...I like redundancy...just saying

If your rope was going to fail at the anchor, I don't think I would want to climb on that rope anyway.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

Y'all are going to have to untie from the rope at some point to rap or lower back down, right? At some point you will be anchored in with something other than the rope, whether that is a pair of draws, some extra slings or a PAS. The PAS might be useless as a belay anchor, but there is still some utility as a tether at rap stations (although I still just use the slings I already had with me).

MegaGaper2000 James · · Indianola, Wa · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 20
Brian Scoggins wrote:what is wrong with reading comprehension these days? nbrown gave the only useful and substantial response, the rest of you said "PAS thread? Time to rip on some n00bs!"

Seriously, buncha dicks....

Eric Krantz · · Black Hills · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 420

I'm not sure I see the benefits of using only the rope all the time, unless you're multi-pitch sport all the time, or you leave a sling girthed to your harness all the time.

I use a PAS, and I love it for reducing chaos and confusion at the anchor - it's nice to have the end of the rope free when on top of super cramped, windy little spire without bolts. It's a pain in the ass to set up a simul-rap with a rope that you're using to tie to the anchor when you're on one side and your partner is on the other. Plus, it's fast. I can attach in 2 seconds.

Further, it's a great way to quickly extend your belay device and add a prussic when rappelling something you may want to stop on, or bring someone else down with you (not that it happens very often, but best to be prepared and be used to it). You can clip two loops to the belay device, and double back the other end of the PAS to your harness for redundancy. (I know, there's only one rope and that's not redundant).

Yarp, what is "cleaning sport routes"?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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