General Alpine Conditions in Late May

Hey all,

My friend and I are contemplating a trip to RMNP in late May. I have hiked/climbed in the area many summers but never this early in the season. I was wondering if anyone more familiar with the area this time of year could offer some general tips or words of wisdom regarding climbing conditions. What are some routes to hit and routes to avoid during this time of year? We are looking to get on as many moderate alpine rock/mixed routes as possible. I'm assuming that avy conditions may still be present on certain aspects and features.

Here are a few of the routes we are interested in:
North Buttress, Pagoda Mountain
Blitzen Ridge, Ypsilon Mountain
The Beaver, Longs Peak
Keyhole Ridge, Longs Peak
Alexander's Chimney to Kiener's Route, Longs Peak
The Flying Buttress, Mt. Meeker
South Face, Petit Grepon
Dreamweaver, Mt. Meeker
Martha, Mt. Meeker
Culp-Bossier, Hallett Peak
Direct South Ridge, Notchtop

Thanks a ton!

I grew up in Canton/Potsdam, and I would be happy to show you around some things. Even with the exclusions of big alpine routes, there are so many things to climb in and around the park that make it worth a trip, so don't let the altitude get you down. As for conditions there is always ice if you know where to look, expect the weather to be sunny and warm by Northalachian standards in the front range. Weather in the park will likely be about par with a "normal" NNY weather that time of year. As for avy danger, I would recommend just checking the CAIC site before a big venture, and err on the side of caution.
Cheers
-Z

Simon,

I think your best bet is anything south facing. Petit would be a good bet. Expect snow on the approach. Late may is usually a good time for Martha and Dreamweaver. I would check beforehand though. Avoid north facing routes which are bound to be cold, wet, and snowy, Unless that is what you are looking for. Rapped the North face of longs several times last year and there was still a TON of snow at the end of June. Watch for rock fall this time of year as everything is loosening up. Safe travels.

Ben