The 2011-12 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

Climbed ~4 pitches of "enter the dragon" up in Tyndall gorge yesterday. There was a bunch of ice and good consolidated snow on the route, not enough for screws, but enough to make it a pretty classic mixed route, without too much groveling.
Has anyone checked out other south facing routes in the park recently? Otis, Cathedral Spires, Cathedral wall, etc?

k. riemondy wrote: Has anyone checked out other south facing routes in the park recently? Otis, Cathedral Spires, Cathedral wall, etc?

Climbed Wham Couloir on Saturday, 1/14. The standard start had zero ice on it, so we scrambled up the ramp to the left of the standard start. There was a lot of wallowing low in the couloir, but the snow was nice and firm for the upper couple hundred feet.

Thanks for all the feed back from my questions about highway 550 south of Ouray and te ames area.

We ended up on Horsetail falls which was in good shape. We hit it early and crossed back over the creek to Bear Creek Falls. We got to the base at 10:30 and the sun was stating to hit the ice. We went up the left side then right of a large hole at the top on rock/ice and up to the road. It made for a great day and done by noon. I found a nice pair of sunglasses at the bottom of the third pitch of horsetail falls. It they are yours contact me wleake16@hotmail.com.

Next day we went to Ames area to check it out and climbed Ames Falls. Not quite ready for the Ice Hose yet. Ames Falls had a huge hole at the bottom which made for quite an experience. We clibed the left side which was quite nice but bad pro due to poor quality/pockety ice on the first half of the climb.

Is anything in Clear Creek in right now?

Brian Tessier wrote:Clear Creek Canyon report: Beer Gardens is starting to form but its thin and the river crossing is sketchy. Coors Light has seen many ascents but it too is thin and delicate. Mickey's 1st and 2nd pitch has started to form but again it's thin and hardly attached. Red Stripe does not exist as of Sunday morning. The weather report for the front range this week looks good for ice making but not good for climbing. *If you decide to climb this stuff, please do it in the morning when its cold, not when its 60 degrees and sunny.

anyone been on alexander recently?

anyone been to officer's gulch area lately?

darthjables wrote:anyone been to officer's gulch area lately?

Just to be sure... you realize that the avy danger in that area is CONsiderable right now with lots of wind-loading, right?

eric bianciotto wrote:anyone been on alexander recently?

I too would be interested to know about alexanders? Forecast looks like there is going to be considerable snow falling on that area over the next few days...

Jon E. wrote:Anyone been up to Big Thompson recently?

I spent the evening on the Upper Falls the other night. It is in and fat like most years. Lower Falls is not in at all.

Kevin Craig wrote: Just to be sure... you realize that the avy danger in that area is CONsiderable right now with lots of wind-loading, right?

Yeah, that's actually my main concern, drove by earlier this week and it looks good, but because of the avy danger, I think we'll end up elsewhere...

A friend turned around on the approach to Round the Corner today. Cracks shooting 50'. I'd avoid the area for the next little while.

Anybody with Rifle conditions/beta?

There aren't many routes listed on mp.com, but I keep hearing that there is great ice to be had.

Tim Zander wrote:Anybody with Rifle conditions/beta? There aren't many routes listed on mp.com, but I keep hearing that there is great ice to be had.

Things are looking ok, the hot cold weather swings have not done any good what is there is thin and steep.

Conditions in rifle:
Stone free is in
Ice palace isn't even close
Soul on ice is in but thin!
Ice caves 1 and 2 (old tree slab) are in
Final curtain is in both left and right

When I was out there this Saturday at the final curtain, some jackasses in a redneck-fabulous blue pickup with a red cattle killer bumper stole an orange and yellow twin rope set and northface daypack out of the back of my truck. Notified the rifle pd. I've lived and climbed here for almost 15 years. First time I've heard of this happening.

Tim Zander wrote:Anybody with Rifle conditions/beta? There aren't many routes listed on mp.com, but I keep hearing that there is great ice to be had.

Also, what's on MP is pretty much what's there. Worth the trip when they're in good shape. If they're not... more of a personal call on whether it's worth it.

Edit to add: that really sucks about the stolen gear. Keep an eye out here and on Craigslist. Hope you get your stuff back or that they at least catch the d'bags.

Anyone know if Jaws is in?

Been too warm for Jaws and if Alexander's isn't there by Nov, it ain't coming this year unless the spring melt/freeze brings it round. Usually just continues to disappear though the winter sublimation.

Bryan Gall wrote:Conditions in rifle: Stone free is in Ice palace isn't even close Soul on ice is in but thin! Ice caves 1 and 2 (old tree slab) are in Final curtain is in both left and right When I was out there this Saturday at the final curtain, some jackasses in a redneck-fabulous blue pickup with a red cattle killer bumper stole an orange and yellow twin rope set and northface daypack out of the back of my truck. Notified the rifle pd. I've lived and climbed here for almost 15 years. First time I've heard of this happening.

Bryan I'm up there three or four days a week I will keep a eye out for that truck in the park and in town.