The Great Wisconsin Community Thread!

Actually a wisk broom would have been the ticket but I negelected to bring one.... Yup.. bare fingers on icy snowy edges and ledges.

The season is not over! Not quite Wisconsin (but about as close as it gets), but I had a good day sport climbing with Randy Baum and his friend Dan yesterday at Red Wing. Yes, it was cold, but the friction was stunningly good.

Word Dylan. We got some nice bouldering in yesterday. Needed some cleaning of snow but not too shabby.

My first season climbing at Devil's Lake. Didn't get out enough, but it is a fun spot. After all these years, 5.8 still feels hard. I suppose it only gets harder as you get older? Best climb: Charybdis.

Next: ice and winter rock! And need to explore some of the 'other' climbing areas around!

Scott Thalacker wrote:My first season climbing at Devil's Lake. Didn't get out enough, but it is a fun spot. After all these years, 5.8 still feels hard. I suppose it only gets harder as you get older? Best climb: Charybdis. Next: ice and winter rock! And need to explore some of the 'other' climbing areas around!

+1 Charybdis is a great "2 pitch" lead too. Stop at the huge ledge, anchor in and send off for the top from 40 ft. up. Excellent climb.

Scott Thalacker wrote:My first season climbing at Devil's Lake. Didn't get out enough, but it is a fun spot. After all these years, 5.8 still feels hard. I suppose it only gets harder as you get older? Best climb: Charybdis. Next: ice and winter rock! And need to explore some of the 'other' climbing areas around!

It'll get easier, you just have to get used to lichen covered quartzite. I've seen competent 5.10 leaders get shut down on 5.8 toprope at the lake until they got used to it.

FNG to Milwaukee here. Will be starting work up there Jan. 9th and should have a gym membership that week. Looking for to getting to know the local climbing community and seeing Devils Lake this Spring/Summer.

Darrin

Favorite sends of 2011 are OS leads of Hammer Crack, Orgasm, and Breakfast of Champions. They were each breakthrough leads for me because on each I was a little sketched out at one point but I pushed through and got it. On orgasm, it was finding no good gear placement after coming out from under the roof, I went up and down a few times. On hammer crack it was the low crux. On BoC it was the higher crux.

My biggest fail this season was on Cleo's Needle about a month ago. I started on the 5.7 rib. When I got to the base of the summit block I traversed 90 degrees to the left to climb the face of it. I was having a hard time and didn't want to hit the ledge at the base of the block in case of a fall so I traversed another 90 degrees and climbed the 5.4 side to the top. Just as I topped out, my rope got pinched somewhere below and would not budge an inch. Whoops!

I am very excited about 2012 climbing at DL. A goal for 2012 is to lead Congratulations (way to go Josh!).

Going out tomorrow. How much snow is in Baraboo?

Josh Olson wrote:Going out tomorrow. How much snow is in Baraboo?

Maybe I should be putting a torch in my pack tonight so we can melt some snow.

No snow, totally dry on north facing stuff. Stay in the woods, the wind is a bitch.

The new year begins. May the season be full of sending.

Yea, and I hope it never snows, ha! I'm gonna head out on Friday for some 40 degree temps. LOL!

Looks like a great day in Wisco! I can't believe I'm saying this while sitting in So Cal but today I wish I was climbing on the East Bluff. Meet me in JTree this Friday if you want to crank in the sun and 60 degrees.

Trad Ninja wrote:Looks like a great day in Wisco! I can't believe I'm saying this while sitting in So Cal but today I wish I was climbing on the East Bluff. Meet me in JTree this Friday if you want to crank in the sun and 60 degrees.

Only 60 degrees? It feels close to that on the east bluff!

Hey DL hardcore climbers: American Dream Roof is featured as a great roof climb, in newest issue of Climbing mag that just came out. That's a big ++ score for Wisconsin.

Woodchuck ATC wrote:Hey DL hardcore climbers: American Dream Roof is featured as a great roof climb, in newest issue of Climbing mag that just came out. That's a big ++ score for Wisconsin.

Sweet! I will have to check it out. They probably made it look bigger than it actually is but yea, its pretty good.

Pic is from a great angle; looks impressive.

I am here and ready to climb. Looking for a regular partner for Adventure Rock. Beuhler?? .... Beuhler??

Anyone?

Darrin

Darrin, A rock will be F'd up all week due to their comp this weekend. I'm in Madison but plan to train there once a week. Come check out the comp! Vince and I are setting route or two with his "world famous" clay holds.