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New route right of Tarzan/Sweet Jane?

Original Post
paintrain · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 75

Anyone know what it is? There is a pin, a bunch of bolts and places for gear. It looks like it meanders all the way up into tingeys with 3-4 bolts on the face to the right of tingeys direct prior to the 3 standard tingey slab bolts?

It does not seem to be the newish Smoot route further right from the description I read -" elementary my dear Watson"

Anyone?

PT

James Garrett · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jun 2005 · Points: 5,937

Yes, I asked the very same question a few months ago and didn't really get a clear answer. I have done what I think is all of the variations and am still mostly unclear which one is even the Watson route. The one that starts below and right of Tarzan is great but too run out for me to ever lead again, with its thin rightward pendulum fall threat at the beginning. If you ever find out more, give us gumbies a heads up. Fun area.

bsmoot · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 3,423

James is right. I'll try and explain. "Elementary my dear Watson" starts way right, over in the approach gully to Tingeys.

As for the new route, (000's) once it reaches the Tingey's area, it starts up the narrow, non nondescript face (bolt protected) just right of the start of Tingey's. It then crosses over right and up a crack, where one hell of a lot of small oak trees were sawed off. It then squeezes between Tingey's Direct and Elementary, ultimately ending on Fudd ledge. This route definitely confuses things.

paintrain · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 75

Brian, are you going to post it up and give us a grade?

Pt

bsmoot · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 3,423

No, I haven't climbed it.

paintrain · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 75

My mistake. I thought it might be yours based on your post.

Pt

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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