Harness for trad and ice

I need a new harness and i wanna get something that is more of an all-arounder.

Any recommendations for a harness optimal for trad and ice?

There are a lot of good choices out there. I am checking out the BD Xenos- is the ice clip sewed onto it?? Not sure if i want that.

What have people had best luck with?

The xenos is fine, as is the aspect if you're looking at BD. I use an Aspect as my all-around harness. The ice clipper is not fixed (it is removable) on any harness, but comes with the Xenos. Having slots for ice clippers is very important for a harness used for ice - makes racking screws very simple and easy. You can certainly do it without the slots, but it just makes life a little easier sometimes.

I'm on my second Black Diamond Focus SA and love it. It's been on aid climbs, multi and single pitch trad, sport, and ice, and I've never had a complaint about it.

Only other suggestion I have is to get adjustable leg loops and enough play in the waist to accommodate thick clothing.
Evan

Petzl Corax

The Wild Country Synchro Elite will hold 4 ice clippers. That is what I use on ice. I'd use it for trad, too, but even the small is a little large on me in the summer when I'm not wearing a bunch of layers.

I was going to suggest the Petzl Adjama because it has slots for 2 ice clippers, but since the Wild Country Synchro Elite has 4, I might have to look into that one!

The aspect has been working well for me for everything.

+1 for the Wild Country Elite Syncro

Robert Buswold wrote:I was going to suggest the Petzl Adjama because it has slots for 2 ice clippers, but since the Wild Country Synchro Elite has 4, I might have to look into that one!

I have an Adjama, its decent but my overall opinion of it is only "meh". No quality issues and it certainly does what Petzl advertises but it has a ton of design compromises. Why it only has two clipper slots I don't know, do you really have to have two waste buckles to get more clipper slots?

The back two gear loops lay flat for use with a pack, the front loops are supposed to be rigid but try putting a small rack on them and you find they aren't rigid unless you only rack a few draws. Also, I'm at the small end of the large waste size so when in shorts or pants and a T-shirt the waste adjustment is cinched up all the way...which means as I climb all the gear on the front two flimsy loops (that tilt forward) piles up in front of me.

The pro's are that the Petzl harnesses fit my waste size perfect (which is why I bought it), the speed buckles are probably the best I've used yet, and the leg loops don't crush my junk like every BD harness. I also like the materials.

If Petzl added two more ice clippers and got serious with rigid gear loops I'd be back on board. As it stands I'm going to buy a another harness after my next trip in two weeks.

had an Adjama...really disliked it.

Been using a Petzl Hirundos for several seasons and really like it on ice and alpine. For me a perfect trad harness as well. Recently bought a second one.

Lot of ice climbers I know using it now.

Designed originally as a super light sport harness.

Adjama......

CAMP Quartz CR3 is a good one. Its got adjustable leg loops, ice clipper slots, and is one of the most comfortable in the business. Supertopo rated it really high in their reviews.

I got the black diamond chaos. Took about 6 months for it to start feeling comfortable (climbing twice a week), but now it is great! I'd buy another one when this one wears out. However, I don't climb ice..

+1 for the Wild Country Synchro

I dig my Wild Country Synchro for ice and trad. Lots of gear loops, plus small bomber loops for ice clips. It's pretty bomber harness. A little uncomfortable on hanging belays in summer attire though.
WC Syncro

loving my WildCountry Synchro...haven't climbed in winter with it yet, but it's crazy comfy. downside: weight and bulk...but if you're not going mega-alpine with it, i think the trade-off's worth it.

dig it!

Dane wrote:had an Adjama...really disliked it. Been using a Petzl Hirundos for several seasons and really like it on ice and alpine. For me a perfect trad harness as well. Recently bought a second one. Lot of ice climbers I know using it now. Designed originally as a super light sport harness.

+1.

The Hirundos is a superb all around harness, which excels in the winter, and pretty much anywhere that doesn't involve lots of hanging belays. I love em'.

The Petzl Adjama is great (adjustable leg loops, light and compressible) but isn't so comfortable for hanging belays. Comfortable enough for short periods of time, or if you are decked out in full alpine garb. This thing is my go-to harness now, whether it is for alpine, trad, or sport. Very light and the Small fits my odd dimensions (very small waist, large legs) quite well, albeit with the leg loops nearly maxed and the belt tightened.

I also have the Quartz CR-3 by CAMP. This harness is awesome as well. Adjustable leg loops (I have a tiny waist and large legs so this is key for me), VERY comfortable (even in hanging belays), etc. I do have a few complaints though. The first being that the harness is not the most compressible, thus its value for alpine or anything with a significant approach is a bit less. Additionally, the material CAMP used for the gear loops is very flimsy and takes some getting used to. It's not like the BD plastic-coated gear loops that are easy to clip gear into, or the ones on the Adjama which are easy to clip to as well. Not that big of a deal if you rack on a sling, but none the less, something to be aware of.

One benefit both of them have that I really like is the auto-adjust (I think that is what it is called, where I don't have to double back the effin things like I do with my wall harness) for the leg loops and waist belt.

With that being said, the only reason I went from the Quartz to the Adjama is because I got skinnier and the waist belt on the Quartz Medium was too big for me.

You really can't go wrong with either of these, whichever is cheaper or fits your goals best would be my recommendation.

Custer wrote:I need a new harness and i wanna get something that is more of an all-arounder. Any recommendations for a harness optimal for trad and ice? There are a lot of good choices out there. I am checking out the BD Xenos- is the ice clip sewed onto it?? Not sure if i want that. What have people had best luck with?

Misty mountain sonic or Cadillac,
Comfortable
big gear loops
rated haul loop in back
and great custy survice.
MADE IN USA.

I've used both the Adjama and the Aspect and have to say that the Aspect is better in all areas other than it being less packable.
I had major issues with the leg loops on the Adjama, Eereytime i took a step the fabric on the inside of my leg would catch on the other the fabric on the inside of the other leg. Very annoying!
Also the molded gear loops on the Aspect are WAY easier to use compared to the flimsy petzl ones.
While hanging the Aspect is more comfortable both on my back and legs.
My final reason is that there are only 2 ice clipper slots on the Adjama where as the Aspect has 4 and i must say they are located in a better position on the Aspect.
The only plus that the Adjama has going for it is that it is more packable (but not lighter) Than the Aspect