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cellige
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Jul 6, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 0
Thought I would share this with everyone in case someone hadn't thought of this. For all of you who need a tether at some point while climbing If you carry a 2 cordelettes (23-25 ft) in a team already then all one need to do is thread the loop through your tie in points (or belay loop if your so inclined) and bring the two loops together and tie it all in a big overhand. You end up with two loops to connect to the anchor points or whatever that reach about as far as you can with your arm. If you need shorter just clove one loop and keep the other long. You can do one better by using 7mm dynamic accessory cord (from bluewater) and have a very safe setup. I like the adjusting ability as well as not carrying extra gear, not to mention its just one knot, its about as fast as girthing two slings. Tschau !
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Buff Johnson
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Jul 6, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2005
· Points: 1,145
The only tether time I think of is alpine ice and snow. I've that BD thingie with the swivel, shit forgot the name; or I'll just use some 5mil rescue cord. 25 feet seems a bit much, I usually do around 13'-15' of 7mil I think, but will also use it for threads, so, I have that PAS.
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Rob Rethans
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Jul 8, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2010
· Points: 0
check out a purcell prusik. only need a ten foot length of 5 or 6 mil cord. cost 3 bucks, weighs less, and is super easy to adjust without unclipping.
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cellige
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Jul 8, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 0
I've tried the purcell before, and your right they are very easy to adjust, especially to lengthen. However I believe using the cordelette still superior because you get two attaching points, the clove can be adjusted easily and all the way short, and even weighs less if you consider your already carrying it.
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themessenger2
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Jul 10, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2010
· Points: 0
Rob Rethans wrote:check out a purcell prusik. only need a ten foot length of 5 or 6 mil cord. cost 3 bucks, weighs less, and is super easy to adjust without unclipping. +1
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Matt Ehn
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Jul 11, 2011
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CA
· Joined Oct 2010
· Points: 476
cellige wrote:I've tried the purcell before, and your right they are very easy to adjust, especially to lengthen. However I believe using the cordelette still superior because you get two attaching points, the clove can be adjusted easily and all the way short, and even weighs less if you consider your already carrying it. But now you're using it as a tether and not for anchor building.
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cellige
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Jul 11, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 0
Matt N wrote: But now you're using it as a tether and not for anchor building. Yes, so what do you mean by that?
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Matt Ehn
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Jul 12, 2011
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CA
· Joined Oct 2010
· Points: 476
cellige wrote: Yes, so what do you mean by that? Why would you carry 2 cordelettes and not use them for anchor building, but instead to tether yourself? If you're using a cordelette, you lead a pitch, build and anchor w/ the cord, bring up your partner, they lead, build an anchor w/ the other cord (while yours is still at the previous belay) = two cordelettes used. Why would you haul up two big, bulky cords and use one for an anchor and one for a personal tether? I really don't see the logic in your original suggestion. If you won't be using both cords on the climb - why bring them?
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jmeizis
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Jul 12, 2011
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Colorado Springs, CO
· Joined Jul 2008
· Points: 230
If you're carrying two cordelettes for a team doing a multipitch climb (why else would you be carrying 2) then why would you not just ditch the whole tether concept and clove in with the rope?
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cellige
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Jul 12, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 0
A bit of confusion here. My suggestion was not to use the cordelette for climbing up but only for situations where one would need a tether such as rapping or ascending etc. Clove with the rope on the way up and use the cordelettes for anchors. But when getting ready for rapping, instead of using your dyneema slings, just use the free cordelette. And for the other person, transfer their cloved rope to the rappel anchor and use that cordelette. Keep them on for all the raps.
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Buff Johnson
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Jul 12, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2005
· Points: 1,145
One of the reasons I bring cordalette is for quick use in descent anchors. So I wouldn't be focused as much on using cord as my tie-in and would rely on other things.
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