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best 5.11 or .12

Original Post
patrick donahue · · Bend, OR · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 493

hey im going to be going to Rumney once this rain stops and i want to break into the 5.12 range. does anyone have any suggestions for first 5.12 at rumney?

i also want to tick of some good 11's are there anyone musts at Rumney?

Ian Wauchope · · Dover, NH · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 340

Well the best 5.12 at Rumney and my suggestion for your first 5.12 would be very different. First 5.12 is usually something that fits your strength like power, endurance or technique. A route that combines all those things is usually a classic and the route that comes to mind is technosurfing 12b. I know many people do Things As They Are Now 12a as their first Rumney 5.12. That route is fun and short and has an early crux. Its located at the Jimmy Cliff. Better advice would be to pick a line that looks coolest to you and just have at it. Good luck.

Jake D. · · Northeast · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 365

Depends what you're good at.. like Ian said. Social outcast is pretty straight forward and if you have good endurance it shouldn't be too bad. Things is crimpy and a lot of body tension but if you can boulder V5 then once you get the sequence down it isn't that bad.
If you like steep burly moves on decent holds then Orangahang might fit you.

.11s the classic ones i seem to have put off.. Tropicana, flyin hawaiian.. The ones i think are good Cereal Killer, 100% columbian and man with a hueco.

JJNS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 531

Flesh for Lulu

Lanky · · Tired · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 255

I really like Three Easy Pieces (.11a) at Upper Vadar. Things as they Are Now is OK, but it might feel a little like cheating if you can boulder V5. Flesh for Lulu is cool - long and crimpy. Pump Up the Volume (12b, but easier than Lulu in my opinion) is crimpy and fun. Apocalypse Later might as well be 12 and it's really varied and interesting.

Good luck!

Steve Thomas · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 30

11's:
Flyin' Hawaiian - spooky, techy dihedral
Nikki's Crack - thin, crimpy, sequential slab
Arm and Hammer - crimpy, slightly overhung. Bouldering on a rope.
Some out of the way ones: Alaskan Arches, Nanook of the North, and Finland are all good and don't see much traffic.

12's:
Peanut Man - power endurance-y
Technosurfing - classic
Giant Man - hard, but way too much fun to skip (perma-draws so no commitment if you have to bail)

Eric8 · · Maynard, MA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 310

The Crusher is the best 5.11

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

11/12 ? Skip Rumney and go do the Prow. It's mostly fixed and SO good

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

Social Outcast is where it's at for a great first 12. It was mine (although I had to hang at the crux cause I couldn't find the hold. Soon as I found it, it was very straightforward to finish).

As it has been said, Giant Man is also spectacular and low commitment. Huuuuuge moves on great holds thru a massive roof. Wild exposure.

Brian Rhode · · Boston, MA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 0

Focusing specifically on 11d and proceeding to 12a you've got to consider Crusher followed by Vaporizer, side by side great Rumney routes. Probably the best 11d is Stone Temple Pilot, which has it all. The best 12a steep climb on good holds is Social, and the best technical 12a is Flesh. The easiest 12a's are Pretzel Logic, Cosmic Monsters, and Curl Up and Fly. Technosurfing and Giant Ma, although brilliant, are without question a notch harder than the 12a routes.

Jake D. · · Northeast · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 365

since when is Pretzel logic easy? I've seen plenty of strong folks get shut down on that.

Social, Things and O-hang are easier than that by far. Curl isn't bad just takes crimps and good aim.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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