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Ropes for a newbie

Original Post
Chris Knapp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 0

If you could have just two ropes as a newbie, what types would you have and why? I am only looking to do be doing early season and summer easy trad climbs while I learn the ropes, figuratively and literally.

Bryan G · · June Lake, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 6,297

Basically you can either go with a twin/double ropes setup, or a lead and tag line setup.

The advantage of double ropes is that they're very lightweight for when you need two ropes to rappel. But they will wear-out fast if those are the only ropes you're using.

The lead/tag setup is more versatile since you can just use the lead line for cragging or toproping. The trade-off is it's heavier when you need to tag that second rope.

Do your climbing partners already own any ropes?

StuckNut · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 0

I'm a newb and I have a 50m x 10.2mm dynamic and a 20m length of 9mm static. The static I use for top rope anchors. For trad I only need the dynamic. I would like a 60m dynamic but so far the 50m does me fine.

I haven't found the need yet to use double ropes for trad.

Tyler Wick · · Genoa, NV · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 85

Really dependent on where you are climbing. If its somewhere you will need to do a lot of double rope rappels, consider Bryan's suggestions. Otherwise the most versatile first rope you can get is probably 9.6-9.8mm 70m. The 70m will allow you to link a lot of pitches and rap more routes.

Nathan Stokes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 440

Your friends and your other friends ropes are the best kind to have while learning. If you only want it for a "learning" rope go the budget route and get non dry treated unless you know you will be doing ice. If you plan on doing a lot of TR get something bigger and more burly. I started with a Mammut 10.2mm dry treated myself, my goals were lead, TR, and TR ice. Rope handles like a steel cable for lead, but is burly for TR. I would pay extra for either Bi Pattern or factor middle marker, but serious watch the sales unless you have play with other peoples ropes enough to have an opinion of what you like / want.

Evan1984 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 30

Get whatever 60 meter 9.8-10.2mm you can find at a good price.

Then, your partner should have a second rope.

Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880

If you're new and climbing easy trad, its not likely you'll be taking whippers; and not much need to top rope either. Go ahead and get one nice 60 or 70M (70 is better), use the extra $ not spent on rope 2 and buy more gear. Your partner needs to provide rope #2. If you get an ugly cheap rope now you'll end up subconsciously allowing it to get trashed.
I just started mentoring a gym kid, he just bought a 70M bi-color from New England ropes that was absolutely gorgeous and gave me rope envy.
Glider
Edit to add: But if your parameters change, like you also top rope a lot or take groups out or want to climb sport then do go with a cheap fat one at first.

Zac Warren · · Springdale, UT · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 210

I own the Edelweiss 10.2 element II. Its a 10.2 so it will last a little longer which is nice for me because i take a lot of groups out climbing so it gets Top ropped on a lot. However its a very smooth rope and I think it clips smoother than many 9.8s i've used. The price tag is also very nice. Usually around $120. Don't spend too much on a rope especially starting out.

Bapgar 1 · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 85

+1 for Mike L.'s suggestion.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,516

Get a 70 meter non-dry rope at least 10mm in diameter for durability so you can toprope over edges, avoid rappelling of the ends, step on it vigorously in muddy boots, and let your dog sleep on it while belaying. Then later get a skinny 9 mm line for alpine.

Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266
Evan Horvath aka Evan1984 wrote:Get whatever 60 meter 9.8-10.2mm you can find at a good price.

+1
I'm not sure about all the 70Meter love for a new climber. When I decide to go out and push my grade, of course I like to sew it up. Placing a lot of gear on a 70 would take.... a lot of gear. Extra rope you don't use is extra rope you have to needlessly carry, most routes were originally done with 50s or shorter. Communication can already be difficult after running out a full 60M. Just some things to consider.

Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880

We were just thinking that w/ a 70 he's less likely to rap off the end (noob) if he sticks to established climbs with obvious/established rap stations and he does his due diligence in knowing the route beta.

mongoose · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 0

Since you are just starting off i would get a thick rope 10mm or 10.2mm. 60m should be perfectly fine for now because chances are you will not need a 70 THAT often and you might as well stick to climbs that can use 60 for now. I would also just get one rope because if your just starting out, you should be going with someone who knows what they are doing before doing double length rappels. Have someone show you how to do that (there are a few ways). As a guide, i tell people that their first rope should be cheap, thick, durable because you are going to thrash it with rope drag and top roping until you figure out out to eliminate the drag. I learned to lead on a 10.2 and i wasnt pushing numbers to the point where i needed a super light weight rope. That comes later when you know more about how and where you like to climb.

Wrap up: get a cheep, thick rope and go with someone with another rope who knows what they are doing if you ever need another rope.

Chris Knapp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 0

Thanks for all the suggestions. I just spent my first season in the mountains last summer while working in Yellowstone and I was instantly addicted (I've lived in Kansas my whole life). Me and my buddy didn't do any technical climbing but I am looking to get into it next summer, so I am just thinking ahead (since I can't think of anything else). Long story short me and my buddy are both spending this year at home saving money, so I am reduced to just gym climbing for the next year unless I take some road trips.

Anyway, I'm sure you will see me posting a lot in this section the next year or so, while I read Freedom of the Hills and come across things I don't understand.

erik kapec · · prescott, az · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 205
Evan Horvath aka Evan1984 wrote:Get whatever 60 meter 9.8-10.2mm you can find at a good price. Then, your partner should have a second rope.

^Si, I agree

A 70m is clearly longer and heavier, really only need one for longer routes and rappels. Although many times you still need a second rope to make it down anyway, sooo...yea if this is your first rope, it definitely wont be your last. Unless you somehow decide climbing sucks! :)

Roger Goldstein · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 30

I climbed on my partners rope while starting out, one hooked watched for good deals and got a 60 M 10.5 Mammut dry rope under 150.00. (125.00)
Now life is getting better and my goals higher so I snagged a Maxim Glider 70M 9.9 for 180.00' a deal I could not miss.
So start simple and inexpensive as long as it one of the top rope makers.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Beginning Climbers
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