Ropes for a newbie
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If you could have just two ropes as a newbie, what types would you have and why? I am only looking to do be doing early season and summer easy trad climbs while I learn the ropes, figuratively and literally. |
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Basically you can either go with a twin/double ropes setup, or a lead and tag line setup. |
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I'm a newb and I have a 50m x 10.2mm dynamic and a 20m length of 9mm static. The static I use for top rope anchors. For trad I only need the dynamic. I would like a 60m dynamic but so far the 50m does me fine. |
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Really dependent on where you are climbing. If its somewhere you will need to do a lot of double rope rappels, consider Bryan's suggestions. Otherwise the most versatile first rope you can get is probably 9.6-9.8mm 70m. The 70m will allow you to link a lot of pitches and rap more routes. |
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Your friends and your other friends ropes are the best kind to have while learning. If you only want it for a "learning" rope go the budget route and get non dry treated unless you know you will be doing ice. If you plan on doing a lot of TR get something bigger and more burly. I started with a Mammut 10.2mm dry treated myself, my goals were lead, TR, and TR ice. Rope handles like a steel cable for lead, but is burly for TR. I would pay extra for either Bi Pattern or factor middle marker, but serious watch the sales unless you have play with other peoples ropes enough to have an opinion of what you like / want. |
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Get whatever 60 meter 9.8-10.2mm you can find at a good price. |
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If you're new and climbing easy trad, its not likely you'll be taking whippers; and not much need to top rope either. Go ahead and get one nice 60 or 70M (70 is better), use the extra $ not spent on rope 2 and buy more gear. Your partner needs to provide rope #2. If you get an ugly cheap rope now you'll end up subconsciously allowing it to get trashed. |
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I own the Edelweiss 10.2 element II. Its a 10.2 so it will last a little longer which is nice for me because i take a lot of groups out climbing so it gets Top ropped on a lot. However its a very smooth rope and I think it clips smoother than many 9.8s i've used. The price tag is also very nice. Usually around $120. Don't spend too much on a rope especially starting out. |
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+1 for Mike L.'s suggestion. |
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Get a 70 meter non-dry rope at least 10mm in diameter for durability so you can toprope over edges, avoid rappelling of the ends, step on it vigorously in muddy boots, and let your dog sleep on it while belaying. Then later get a skinny 9 mm line for alpine. |
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Evan Horvath aka Evan1984 wrote:Get whatever 60 meter 9.8-10.2mm you can find at a good price. +1 |
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We were just thinking that w/ a 70 he's less likely to rap off the end (noob) if he sticks to established climbs with obvious/established rap stations and he does his due diligence in knowing the route beta. |
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Since you are just starting off i would get a thick rope 10mm or 10.2mm. 60m should be perfectly fine for now because chances are you will not need a 70 THAT often and you might as well stick to climbs that can use 60 for now. I would also just get one rope because if your just starting out, you should be going with someone who knows what they are doing before doing double length rappels. Have someone show you how to do that (there are a few ways). As a guide, i tell people that their first rope should be cheap, thick, durable because you are going to thrash it with rope drag and top roping until you figure out out to eliminate the drag. I learned to lead on a 10.2 and i wasnt pushing numbers to the point where i needed a super light weight rope. That comes later when you know more about how and where you like to climb. |
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I just spent my first season in the mountains last summer while working in Yellowstone and I was instantly addicted (I've lived in Kansas my whole life). Me and my buddy didn't do any technical climbing but I am looking to get into it next summer, so I am just thinking ahead (since I can't think of anything else). Long story short me and my buddy are both spending this year at home saving money, so I am reduced to just gym climbing for the next year unless I take some road trips. |
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Evan Horvath aka Evan1984 wrote:Get whatever 60 meter 9.8-10.2mm you can find at a good price. Then, your partner should have a second rope. ^Si, I agree |
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I climbed on my partners rope while starting out, one hooked watched for good deals and got a 60 M 10.5 Mammut dry rope under 150.00. (125.00) |




