Low Grade Sport in NC

I just moved to Boone in January, and now that the weather is getting warmer I wan to get out and climb in this area. I'm looking for local areas that I can start working.

About me:

-I'm a college student, and I'm broke.
-I have a full rack of draws but zero trad gear.
-I can confidently lead up to 5.9ish sport.
-I'll be climbing with my girlfriend, who is not comfortable leading but can climb 5.9 on TR.

Any suggestions for local climbing that will work for me?

I am sure that someone more "local" than me will chime in with a better answer, but i really think that your best bet might be NRG in WV. It is around 2 - 2.5 hours away, but crags like Sandstonia, Whippoorwill and The Orange Wall (?) at Summerville Lake have a ton of great moderate sport climbs. Ask around Boone. From what I hear, there are a bunch of great spots in that area that are word of mouth only. Hooking up with some locals would probably be your best bet. Good luck with your search!

Table Rock, N.C. has Jim Dandy, which is a 5.5 sport route, two pitches. Bear Cub on the Flakeview Buttress at Rumbling I would call 5.8/9 sport. Opinionated at Crowder's is a 5.9 sport, but it is recommended to bring a yellow C3 for one section.

Not much in that range unfortunately. RRG will have a much better selection, but that is about 4 hours north. N.C. is a trad state. You should buy some gear or break into the 10's for a larger selection of sport. Otherwise TR'ing is your only other option.

Pick up a copy of Mike Grimms "High Country Cragger"....avaliable at Footsloggers.....great book. all the info you will need for Boone and 221 sportclimbing....ask around the Outdoor Programs too.. they have a whole world of Info...i went to School at APP....tons of good climbing....i would also suggest buying a boulderpad....worthy investment for Boone....enjoy the High Country....

There are some easy sport routes and top-roping available at Pilot Mountain. It's a little less than 2 hours away. You can download the guidebook from the CCC.

TomCaldwell wrote:Table Rock, N.C. has Jim Dandy, which is a 5.5 sport route...

Not to split hairs here, but just because Jim Dandy is bolted does not make it a sport route. If I remember correctly, the second pitch, although very easy, has 1 bolt and requires one to make an anchor on a tree. It is a fun route, but not one I would recommend as fitting the OP's criteria. There are a number of great bolted moderate routs on Table Rock, but I would not refer to any of them as "sport." All have, to one degree or another, substantial run-outs and are somewhat more committing than your typical single pitch clip-up.

Stone Depot is another option for bolted, easy routes. It is a fun hike in and offers amazing view of Looking Glass

go to linville gorge. lots of easy and moderate sport routes mixed w/trad. table rock is there!!!!
try slab climbing @stn mtn. 625ft. dont need much gear there either. slings and draws maybe few cams.
get selected climbs in NC guidebook and if u come to the nrg, wv gimme a shout. its been my playground since early 90's

NC Rock Climber wrote: Not to split hairs here, but just because Jim Dandy is bolted does not make it a sport route. If I remember correctly, the second pitch, although very easy, has 1 bolt and requires one to make an anchor on a tree. It is a fun route, but not one I would recommend as fitting the OP's criteria. There are a number of great bolted moderate routs on Table Rock, but I would not refer to any of them as "sport." All have, to one degree or another, substantial run-outs and are somewhat more committing than your typical single pitch clip-up.

You must not have climbed it in a while. The route pro has changed even since the last 'Selected Climbs' printing IIRC. First it is actually 3 pitches. First pitch has two or three bolts and two bolt anchor. Pitch 2 has 3 bolts on the traverse and another one or two to the anchor (two bolt). There is only one bolt on the third pitch but it is easy terrain (maybe this was the second pitch you are referring to). Natural anchors at the top. Walk down-3/4 class or continue up via other routes. I climb the first two pitches of Cave route as a sport route as well, same walk down as Dandy or finish the route.

There is also Stone mountain, although some people consider this bolted trad because of the distance between bolts. Still on most routes all you need or can use are quickdraws. You can climb the great arch with limited pro if you don't mind runouts on easy terrain. I usually climb it with one cam and slings for the trees. FYI, doing this will cause you to forgo pro for most of the last pitch (supereasy terrain). Getting to the tree ledge without trad gear can be tricky. Check out white way direct (5.9) it is a little spicy in spots but not bad, 3 bolts for ~100ft IIRC. More options to the left and right of the tree ledge.

Coffee is correct. I was thinking of the Cave Route, not Jim Dandy. It has been a while since I have been there, and I confused the two routes. I totally stand corrected.

EvanH wrote:I just moved to Boone in January, and now that the weather is getting warmer I wan to get out and climb in this area. I'm looking for local areas that I can start working. About me: -I'm a college student, and I'm broke. -I have a full rack of draws but zero trad gear. -I can confidently lead up to 5.9ish sport. -I'll be climbing with my girlfriend, who is not comfortable leading but can climb 5.9 on TR. Any suggestions for local climbing that will work for me?

Short term: check out the High Country Cragger. The Dump, Little Wilson's, and the full range of Ship Rock.
Their website:
fullmantlepress.com/hcc.html

Next year: start trad climbing