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Reverso for top rope self belay

Original Post
AGParker · · San Angelo, TX · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 20

I searched the forums and found some info for using the reverso/guide for roped solo, but has anyone used the reverso or guide for top rope solo? I am going to be helping out with setting up some routes in a new indoor gym at the university that I work at and just wanted to see if my reverso would work. It seems like I could tie in to one end and set up the reverso in auto-block mode attached to a sling on my harness and then let the device lock off when attaching holds. Then as I make my way up the route, just take in slack and tie back up knots every 10 feet or so. What are your thoughts on this or any other set up for top rope self belay for this purpose?

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,305

Do they have any topropes set in place? You can just jack yourself up and hold in place with a grigri, plus safety knot each stop along the way.

AGParker · · San Angelo, TX · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 20

I know a gri gri would work, but I don't have one and don't really want to spend $90 on one. We'll be able to set up the top ropes from a stair case inside of the wall...it is free-standing. I am just trying to figure out if I can set routes without having a belayer and without buying a gri gri or cinch. I also have a petzl ascension I could use, but it is difficult to lower once the ascender locks off.

Matt Thorum · · Urbana, IL · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 0

Seems like you could use something like this setup:

alpineinstitute.blogspot.co…

Justin Brunson · · Tacoma WA · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 2,266

just get a grigri. it's well worth the 60 bucks you're gonna pay for a used one to be able to efficiently put up a good route.
If you're constantly wrestling with your system, it will take at least twice as long and the quality of the route will suffer greatly.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,305

somebody selling their grigri right here at MP. go for it.

Otherwise I still promote the wise use of the Click Up device. Also the Mammut Smart is OK, but not nearly as secure a lock down as the ClickUp or grigri.

Josh Olson · · Durango, CO · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 255

For what its worth, I use the mammut SMART belay device. It doesn't lock up as well as a gri-gri, but for 30$, it does the trick for setting. Also a great device for belaying lead climbers. Make sure you tie at least one knot a bit off the ground, and you'll be fine.

AGParker · · San Angelo, TX · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 20

Thanks for the input...I guess I just need to break down and buy a gri gri.

Noah C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 5

Your in luck.... Grigri for sale

Ian White · · Dubois, Wyoming · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 0

Universities are, generally, very concerned with safety. Pitch it that way. LIABILITY!!! Simple cost vs benefit analysis. Cost= not safe+$60, Benefit=quality route setting + more importantly safe. I've spent time running walls for Universities. It's a worthwhile pitch to your coordinator/director/whatever. That, and it really works well.

Also, look into some simple "rescue" pick offs. Toss that idea their way. Grigris help facilitate the process.

John Farrell · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 85
AGParker wrote:I searched the forums and found some info for using the reverso/guide for roped solo, but has anyone used the reverso or guide for top rope solo? I am going to be helping out with setting up some routes in a new indoor gym at the university that I work at and just wanted to see if my reverso would work. It seems like I could tie in to one end and set up the reverso in auto-block mode attached to a sling on my harness and then let the device lock off when attaching holds. Then as I make my way up the route, just take in slack and tie back up knots every 10 feet or so. What are your thoughts on this or any other set up for top rope self belay for this purpose?

I have done this, mainly for ascending a rope, you just put it in "Revserso" mode off your belay loop. When doing this, I prefer the Black Diamond Guide though. Even though they are similar the hook in point for the Reverso and Guide are at different angles, so the Reverso twists a little, but it still works just fine. Going up works great. Have fun if you need to descend the rope. I prefer the GriGri for that purpose.

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 939

i've used my reverso3 for ascending a fixed line before, and it was a little hard to unlock. if you're using anything smaller than a 9.8 you will want to use something like a cinch/grigri or minitraxion.

Eli Helmuth · · Ciales, PR · Joined Aug 2001 · Points: 3,609

The petzl basic is made specifically for top-rope self-belaying. I tie a simple chest harness w/ 48" sling and use a locker top and bottom(belay loop)to keep the rope trapped with the chest harness pulling it up smoothly, hands free. With a chest harness and two lockers (right size), I think it's more secure than the way Petzl shows in their PDF petzl.com/files/all/technic…

I've put a few 100k on this thing and love the way it works.
Combined with a gri-gri for going down, this is a smooth set-up.
petzl.com/en/outdoor/multi-…

Patrick Feeney · · hartland vt · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 15

i use the petzl shunt.i toprope alone a lot and a petzl rep told me about this.and it works great.they make two,one with teeth on the cam and one that is smooth.i have used both.but the one with teeth will eat your rope.i always back it up also.but i have been using it for 3 years and never had a problem or slip

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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