The 2010 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

Went down to Wolf Creek to ski, but looked at the ice on the east side, it's in, looks decent at the chain station. Oh, and it snowed 10 feet there last week.

Nice shot Beagle!

That is why we went skiing that day!
(me in front, Carol Kotchek middle, Aaron Miller with old glory)
Way to many climbers @ one route! With so many others to be done,
will anyone sack up for the sharp end??

There were actually some really cool mixed/ice lines up near skylight area this weekend that I havent seen formed before. Werent crowded either... Just gotta think outside the box.

Anyone knows what conditions are like in Vail right now?
Thanks!

Vail:
The designator:

Took the tools for a walk in the park monday... here are a few conditions:

LV
far left side: in, but short and not really worth the walk (as always)
main curtain: touching down in only one spot (and well guarded by free-hanging ice), with a lot of free-hanging ice, pretty far off the ground. not really in climbing shape.
far right: not touching down

Crypt
Appears in, but as always -- short and likely avy prone currently

AMU

JLI
Was told by some departing climbers that it is a wallow to get there (they didn't go all the way), but appeared 'in'.

Anybody know the conditions in Redstone and Glenwood Canyon?

Does anybody have an idea on what Longs' N Face looks like? Or a Pic would be awesome.

Thanks,
John

About to head up to the ice park this sunday - mid week next week. I was there 2 weeks ago when it all fell down and rained and what not, so I can imagine what the park will be like. But I'm actually looking to just join in the festival fun for sunday and then head off to do some REAL ice. 2 weeks ago when I was there - it snowed alot, avi danger was too great for most things.

So how about now? what's the condition/avi danger on the long classics below WI4/M5 etc.? Like - ribbon/birdbrain/stairway/ames/etc? How about the stuff around red mountain pass? 2 weeks ago I was told not to go there. I like easy long classics :)

What are in good shape to get on right now?

Will it be worth my 6hr drive from the front range?

best regards.

Just was in Ouray a few days ago and the park should be good to go with plenty of ice, if they open it to climbers. Seems like there was decent ice, yet it seems like it was closed to build it as big as possible before the fest. I'm not familiar with how they deem man-made ice "safe" and when they open areas. The ice will surely be shitty and require alot of cleaning. Skylight is all pegged out and people taking numbers to do routes, can't see that getting any better this coming weekend. Folks parking all the way down the road. The Ribbon is in great shape, it pooped out on my buddies pretty good but didn't rip them off the route though. That route is always a toss-up with snow above. Birdbrain is filled with snow down low. Talisman is kinda in on the upper pitches with the initial pitch getting to it being touted as M9+R trad. If you like big crowds, watching others climb and waiting all day to climb a route, make the drive. My 2-cents

Climbed All Mixed up yesterday (Jan7). Wind slab everywhere up there. Slab below start is approx 6-10" thick, sitting atop 3-4" of sugar. P3 slope more of the same, although there is a broken stretch you can follow. Top slab has cracked off in a few places, so not as bad, but the traverse back to the base of the route is slabbed out as well. Be careful out there, and go out of your way to stay on and link rock features on those slopes.

As for the climb, it was pretty lean (as compared to the pics on the AMU route page). A lot of the ice we encountered was rotten or sublimated. A lot of spots were mighty thin as well. P1 was pretty solid though (went up the middle). Thereafter there were a couple good screws here and there, but mostly rock gear. Frozen turf is in great shape though, always came along at just the right time. Bring stoppers, cams, pins, and make sure you bring your stubbies and screamers (ended up having to tie-off a 13cm more than once, fun). Good to be out.

Pic is pretty large so you can click through to see more detail.

Redstone Pillar is in, but thin at the top and very wet on the right side.

Any updates on Lincoln Falls?

LosBosquez wrote:Any updates on Lincoln Falls?

This time of year there should be no reason why you shouldn't just go there, no need to ask...should be pretty fat, especially with the way the ice is looking off of I-70. Lincoln is one of the places that's in first and out last. I would imagine this might be a huge year too with all the snow, melt, cold.

Have fun!!

Anybody know if the upper falls in Haflin Canyon are in? I've seen a lot of ice on the hills around Durango, but haven't been in the canyon yet this year. I don't want to loose a day of climbing by hiking!

David Sweet wrote:Actually, unless something drastic has changed, there is no reason to go to Mt. Lincoln now. I was there at the end of Dec. and there is much less ice than in previous years. There is also much more snow than usual. The combination makes for short sections of climable ice interspersed with long snow wallows. Most of the steeper sections weren't completely in and to do them as mixed lines also involves lots of slogging. At least it's not crowded.

Wow...thanks Dave! I would have thought the opposite!

Anyone know the conditions of Columbine Falls or Peacock Pillar in the Park?

Jamie Jones wrote:Ice park only partially open! Wish they would have said something before we went down there. Met a bunch of Euros not very happy that the ice was so lame, Skylight is so hacked out already because you couldn't get on anything in the park. Guides were toproping in the Skylight area. Plus the rumor is there is problems with the water system. Funny how they seem to be keeping this all hush hush, I guess its all about the money as usual.

Jamie Jones wrote:I guess I'm an Idiot, along with the five hundred others that were there asking the same questions I was. I was told by locals they were keeping things quiet because the town was looking for $$. I of course was looking for ice. Funny I guess all those Euros were as dumb as me. They were asking the same questions as well. The problem with the water system is there is only so much water to go around, in other words with so many people in town using the town water system there apparently wasn't enough water to make much ice over X-mas. That according to ice park crew.

I don't even know where to start with this and I'm sure not going to get into it too much but I can't let this go.

No Locals are keeping anything quiet, conditions on the park and surronding areas are posted all over the internet.

It has nothing to do with money.

Ice park owns plenty of water to supply the whole park the only area that hasn't had water is below the shithouse wall due to a break.

"Funny I guess all those Euros were as dumb as me." No comment except when did the Euros become the "smart ones" at the park. They never know anything anyway. Maybe you should have said, "I guess I'm as dumb as all the Euros"

I'd like to know even the first name of the "Local" who told you this. Does local count as someone that lives there a couple months a year or year round? Doubtful you actually talked to a true local that actually knew what was going on.

Guides are not TRing climbs they are sharing lines as different groups which I saw happening with Private parties just as much as Guides. If "Friends" can share ropes, why can't guides, they are allowed to be friends.

Next time you want to bitch about a FREE service to climbers you should get good info. Just cause you drive here doesn't mean Ouray has an obligation to spoon feed you your climbs. There has been plenty of ice out here for months. ANYONE is always welcome to hit me up for conditions if they can't find the info they need on the internet.There are always good pitches in that aren't being climbed, just gotta find them. GO LOOK!!!!!!!!!!!!

ozman wrote:Anybody know if the upper falls in Haflin Canyon are in? I've seen a lot of ice on the hills around Durango, but haven't been in the canyon yet this year. I don't want to loose a day of climbing by hiking!

I know someone the hiked up there on Friday and it is not even close to being in. Hope that saves you a hike.

I was up at the Boulder Ice Falls on Sunday. The lower falls were not there at all. The upper falls have one or two routes that have come in. The main line was thin, but fun.

There was also a line to left where the ice had actually seperated from the wall by about a foot.

I was also at Hayes Creek Falls in Redstone last Tuesday for some free solo fun. I think I have never seen that so thin. That warm spell in late December seems to have really screwed up conditions.