The 2010 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

At this point, I'd be pretty leery to venture up into the 10-mile gullies. I experienced severe cross wind loading up in "Round the Corner" gully and the upper reaches of the gully get a fair amount of wind-loading and sun. The recent debris pile out of the approach gully is a good indicator of what may be to come.
The Shroud is still lean and very thin on top but climbable. My experience is that it will be a safer bet once it forms up, from avi danger. I have see it slide heavy with late-season sun on a wet snowpack. My 2-cents

Scott McMahon wrote:Took a 60mph look at Silverplume yesteday. It's "in" but probably not too fat as you can see the dark color of the rock behind the ice. Looks like it needs some more time to fatten up, but I also didn't take the time to walk up. This storm should help alot.

Climbed It yesterday 11-22-10 for the 4th time this season and it is pretty fat to the middle and the right, the left side is still flowing with water and broken up in spots. I was able to lead with small-medium screws. Approach is kind of a bitch as the creek isnt frozen enough in places to hike on, watch for post holes on the river.

Ryan N wrote: Climbed It yesterday 11-22-10 for the 4th time this season and it is pretty fat to the middle and the right, the left side is still flowing with water and broken up in spots. I was able to lead with small-medium screws. Approach is kind of a bitch as the creek isnt frozen enough in places to hike on, watch for post holes on the river.

Thanks Ryan...wish it would fatten up like in the old guidebooks. I think I might have missed the golden years, especially in Bocan!

The Rigid Designator, that was 1ft from touching down, has fallen overnight as of Thanksgiving Day.

Climbed AMU Tuesday 23NOV w/ SteveH
Good conditions, broke trail to base, glad I had flotation.
New sling on 1st (thanks Steve), backed up 2nd, & 3rd raps, prefer rap instead of the walk off. Used existing 11mm fixed line to backup 3rd rap.
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Conditions were good on Lincoln Falls today (Nov 26). Main flow mostly fat; not much else yet.

Eric and Lucie wrote:Conditions were good on Lincoln Falls today (Nov 26). Main flow mostly fat; not much else yet.

So anyone know what's been up with Lincoln the last couple of years? Used to be the upper "grade 5" pillar/curtain would form every year. Last couple of years... Nothing. Only the gully has been coming in. Did the anonymous ice farmer(s) lose interest? Move away? Anyone know?

Kevin, Except for the main flow.....the Scottish Gully, Lincoln ice has always been farmed.

The local guys who used to farm the ice moved away two years ago and no one else has taken up the slack. as you might remember there used to be a lot more ice. The peak was about seven years ago when there was excessive ice right and also way to the left. Ovev to the far left was a two or three pitch mixed/ice route.

Kevin, Except for the main flow.....the Scottish Gully, Lincoln ice has always been farmed.

The local guys who used to farm the ice moved away two years ago and no one else has taken up the slack. as you might remember there used to be a lot more ice. The peak was about seven years ago when there was excessive ice right and also way to the left. Over to the far left was a two or three pitch mixed/ice route.

So whats the deal with fat looking piece of ice off of I-70 near Idaho Springs. The one over there by the water wheel. Is that open to climbing or is that private?

I used to know someone who farmed that, from what I understood it's illegal, he used to run solo laps on it possibly at night to avoid confrontation.

Sprial Staircase 11-26-10

Hidden Falls is in decent shape. Bit wet at the bottom, and brittle at top, but leadable. Please thread lightly on upper pillar; it's thin and hollow.

Nick Przybysz wrote:So whats the deal with fat looking piece of ice off of I-70 near Idaho Springs. The one over there by the water wheel. Is that open to climbing or is that private?

It has power lines in it. It is NOT open to climbing. Please do not climb it (at any time!!)....it will just create more tension between climbers and authority.

Jason Kaplan wrote:I used to know someone who farmed that, from what I understood it's illegal, he used to run solo laps on it possibly at night to avoid confrontation.

Farmed it??

The wagon wheel ice flow outside of and actually IN Idaho springs is currently off-limits to climbing. I'm working on getting it open for climbing so please everyone, stay off of this waterfall if you ever want it to be available to climbing anytime soon.

Also for everyone's information. This waterfall is NOT farmed. It is natural leakage from above. It is Idaho Springs city land and is off-limits. Thanks.

@jack

Does it not have power lines in it just like left of BVF? It was my impression it did...that might make it pretty tough to get "open"?

Dave Kast treading lightly on the finishing moves of Hidden Falls 11/27...

Hey by the way I found your jacket at the base... contact me with a description and a good reason why you left it and I'll get it back to you.

Anyone want to get out Tuesday morning for some ice in Boulder Canyon? I have until around noon but can start at any time. Anyone know what is in up there?

John Maguire
PM or 508 320 1767

As of Friday afternoon there isn't really climbable ice in BoCan. It's forming pretty well at the upper falls area but the main flow is running water at a good clip still. The ice is all very unstable on the main flow. There are top ropeable mixed lines to the right of the main flow. Scramble around the right side and setup a top rope on whatever looks fun. There are at least 3 good variations to play around on (~m4ish) and there is some fat easy ice at the bottom of these lines.

Just to the left of the main falls there is a mixed line that's quite a bit harder. There is some ice on that but you can't really swing, just tap, tap, tap to get a pick placement. Be gentle. Further to the left there is ever harder mixed line (Master of Puppets). Getting to the anchor bolts would be a pretty scary scramble but you can build an anchor above the aquaduct with #1 and #2 camalots and rap in or top rope the line from there. There is no ice on this line but it's fun.