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New boulder problems in the Malpais

Original Post
Roberto · · La Jolla, CA · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 95

My wife and i found a few boulder problems that might have been FAs, but we are not sure. Can someone let us know if these have been climbed before of not. i will update the routes.

Thank you,
roberto

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Paul Davidson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 607

John Duran spent sometime around the Overlook doing stuff.
I belive he did a number of routes there.
He boulders hard and might have spent sometime doing so there.

Most (all?) climbers I've ever known that bother with the Malpais have been out there to do routes.

Roberto · · La Jolla, CA · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 95

Those were my thoughts exactly and none of the routes we did were even remotely hard.

When i tried the harder routes holds kept breaking on me...and i decided that they were just not worth it yet. More pads and more cleaning and some amazing lines are possible out there!

thank you!

roberto

William Penner · · The 505 · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 455
Paul Davidson wrote:Most (all?) climbers I've ever known that bother with the Malpais have been out there to do routes.

Paul,

John Groth and I did some bouldering at the Overlook and picnic grounds on the south end of the Narrows a few years back. The rock was terrible relative to other sandstone in New Mexico so I can understand why it isn't popular.

Roberto, if you break off enough holds you always have an FA even if the line was climbed before.

W

Roberto · · La Jolla, CA · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 95

Yeah i doubt the boulder problems will be the same the next time someone does them. Well i will post them as unknown and give them the estimated grade i thought.

THANK YOU for getting back to me on such obscure problems.

roberto

Paul Davidson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 607
Williampenner wrote: Paul, John Groth and I ....

Well, there you go. Proves my point.
You and John aren't climbers; you're hard men...

No offense intended, Roberto, but one has to wonder if it's even worth taking up the bandwidth for such problems. If a problem changes with every ascent, is that really a boulder problem?
Isn't that more like a sculpture problem?

The climbing itself is only attractive to a certain twisted group (of which unfortunately I have been a member.)
This stuff makes Sedona look solid, Sedona makes IC look almost like granite.
But, there are some nice cracks and if it gets desperate enough, you can kick steps.
NO, it's not really that bad, the views are great, scenery unique even for NM, doubt you'll ever see another party, even in today's world overrun by climbers.

Actually, I think JD might have actually put up some quasi sport routes near the overlook. He lurks around here sometimes. Maybe he'll catch wind of this and fill in the details.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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