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Mt. Lemmon rock ID

Original Post
Clay Mansfield · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 300

Hey all, I have recently done a couple of crack climbs at the group of small towers directly uphill from the pullout for the Pharoah and Ripple Wall



more specifically, this short 5.6ish crack:



and as of today, this harder right-slanting crack/seam:



I have not seen anything about these small towers in Bob Kerry's book, John Steiger's book, or EFR's STL II, nor is it on mp.com, so I was wondering if anyone knew anything about them.

I have placed no fixed anchors or bolts, as both of the cracks above are walkoffs. However, I have debated adding bolts to the bottom half of the far left tower from the first picture (2nd half is crack). I don't think the bottom half could go on gear, though maybe I'm missing something. Anyways, I don't want to add bolts if that face has been climbed on all gear.

Any info is appreciated. Thanks!

Clay Mansfield · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 300

Also, on 2nd tower from the left, I saw at least one hanger on top, and a bolt hole down low on the backside. I don't know if it was abandoned?

Clay Mansfield · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 300

rickd, thanks for the input, that was my feeling as well. I kind of have a hard time believing that crack has not been climbed, as it's obvious even from your car as you drive by.

Probably a good chance the two cracks shown above have been climbed as well, though maybe not, as the rock was pretty gravelly in some places.

Either way, very fun to get on unknown (to me) routes!

Geir www.ToofastTopos.com · · Tucson/DMR · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 2,751

clay,

this is rick again. i'm using geir's account to post because i suddenly forgot my password. (thanks geir)

upon further reflection, it's very unlikely the routes have been done. as many bolts should be added as possible. this way, it will be clear in the future that the routes have been done.

consider 3/4" eye bolts. make sure to use the lowest grade metal so that they have to be replaced soon. if possible add salt dispensers and an irrigation system directly above each bolt. (iodized salt is not necessary).

also, under no circumstances should the bolts be painted. use the brightest most chromy-looking things you can find.

thanks,
rick

ok ok i lied. this is really geir. i admit it! :)

seriously, i think rick is right (his real post, not my fake one). one possible way to determine this would be to email davidson, steiger (both have accounts on MP), and/or grossman (i think you can get a hold of him on rc.com). they may be able to provide more info.

regards & sorry rick for messing with your reputation. i owned up to it though! :)

geir

Geir www.ToofastTopos.com · · Tucson/DMR · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 2,751

hahahaha rick! she's back in the am tomorrow.

my trailer's front porch is dirt. :)

Paul Davidson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 607

I did something with Steve once somewhere in that general area, but I it was pretty close to the road and in the 5.10r/x range. (at least I think...)

Steiger would know best if any of the guard got on these.

But I doubt it. We didn't have much interest in short routes back then because there was still a good selection of long stuff around.

But, it would be worth an email to JS and SG to see if they'd come on here. SG is at the taco almost daily. JS is an elusive creature.

John Steiger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 3,126

I don't recognize those lines. Climb 'em and name 'em, amigo.

Clay Mansfield · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 300

Thanks for the input John.

I am interested in trying to climb the middle of the far left tower (half face, half crack) ground up, drilling (if needed) on lead. Unfortunately, I have no experience doing this and would immensely appreciate any help or tutelage from somebody more experienced.

Clay

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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