Metolius Master Cam reviews?

Well, there still isn't a thread in the gear review section on Master cams... and I know some of you all have some that you are using (or at least have used). I'm looking to double up on the small stuff and would like some feedback on these before I buy a set.

Thanks!

Hi Springs,

Alpinist.com will be posting a guide review of the Master Cams in the next few weeks. Stay posted here: Alpinist Mountain Standards

Erik
Alpinist.com Editor

In the small sizes they are good. In the larger sizes, not so good.

Edit* I think their TCUS suck. Get the 4CU Mastercams and you will be much happier. The TCUS walk like crazy and are hard to clean...

In my experience - A much better alternative

C3's up to Red (I think number 1)
Blue and Yellow Master Cams
C4's for larger

No offsets

John Maguire wrote:In the small sizes they are good. In the larger sizes, not so good.

+1

http://mountainproject.com/v/climbing_gear_reviews/gear_review__metolius_master_cams/106136428

Do a ten minute search springs...I found like 5+ pretty thorough threads on MCs.

RC.com for all its shortcomings is much more review orientated. There were a few threads over there.

I like mine, have purple through yellow. I have only fallen on the purple and it held like a champ (in a great placement).

I've got the yellow, orange and red - use them as doubles (sorta) on the BD C4 sizes in the same range. I like them a lot. My only fall on gear was on the orange so i like it an awful lot.

Well thanks for your input guys.

I did see the reviews from RC.com... that are about 18 month old reviews. I'm wondering how they are doing now, after people have had them for a while.

Are the trigger wires an issue? I have the supercams and haven't had any issues with trigger wires on them, but they are more protected by the U-stem.

I'm assuming that there haven't been issues with people that are posting that they like them, otherwise it would have been mentioned, but any input based on time owned would be nice to hear.

I bought mine last summer, used them a fair number of times, not heavy use, but they didn't just ride around in the pack either. Not all of the three get placed on every pitch, but at least one will.

I have Master Cams blue, yellow, orange, and red and I have been really happy with them. I also have C-4s and some C-3s. I've never used Aliens so I can't compare those. Anyway, I've found that the MCs have less range than the C-4s but since the MCs have a narrower head they still seem to fit more places in the smaller sizes. Where I climb even the most parallel cracks are not very parallel so the narrower heads work really well. For larger size cams the C-4s rule but for smaller sizes (less than.75) I like the MCs the best. Regardless, I think having variety in the smaller sizes is the best. Oh yeah, I also fell on the orange MC and it held fine.

I think the reviews still hold true...no problems with cable wires, less range, more holding power. I only have the smallest sizes and they've been fine.

I think the main question that still also holds true is the range part.

I have purple through orange and still like them a lot after about a year of use. IMO They seem to complement BD C3's pretty well.

I have a purple, gray and yellow and I like them. I can't decide if I like them more or less than my bootied red c3 though.

You've seen this review, right? Chris Mac likes 'em.

I've had the grey through the yellow for some time now...a year or more. I like them more than TCUs or Aliens, but I've had durability issues.

On the yellow, the kevlar trigger wire pulled out. I read online that there may have been a batch of bad glue out there. It may have gotten poked with a nut tool, too.

On the blue, the spring came unhooked from the little nub.

So that's a 50% failure rate. It's a free fix (except for postage), and they come back all shiny, with a new sling and all. Actually, I'm still waiting for the blue to come back. It's been four weeks today. I had to make a road trip without it.

[6 days later]
Metolius replaced my blue unit for free.