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JTree clean aid crack?

Original Post
Andy Laakmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,990

Have a chance to be in JTree for two days this week, but we'll have our two young kids in tow so probably not any actual climbing for us.

Anyone have suggestions for a crack to clean aid solo practice on? This is about all we could get done with our two active kids.

Requirements -

  • Flat base
  • Not far from the road
  • Not likely to get in anyone's way (um, yeah, like clean aiding Double Cross)
  • Continuous crack top to bottom
  • Good anchor options top and bottom (since we'll be taking turns aid soloing it)

The first climb that popped into my head is Coarse and Buggy - and that isn't too popular usually. I've lead it free climbing before and remember a perfect top-to-bottom crack. This has the added benefit of being a sweet climb to TR if the kids cooperate!

Any other suggestions?

I know... how about Illusion Dweller... hardeharhar.

Murf · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 2,159

I know nothing about aid climbing, but Todd Gordon's collective wisdom is
aid climbs.

Tom Fralich · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 0

I remember a hilarious photo from a few years back of some guys aiding one of the routes in Indian Cove. It was probably staged, but good for a laugh nonetheless. The guy leading is like 3 ft off the ground with gloves, and hammer, and a ginormous rack and the belayer is standing like 20 ft from the wall. Anyone have this photo?

Abram Herman · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 20
Tom Fralich wrote:I remember a hilarious photo from a few years back of some guys aiding one of the routes in Indian Cove. It was probably staged, but good for a laugh nonetheless. The guy leading is like 3 ft off the ground with gloves, and hammer, and a ginormous rack and the belayer is standing like 20 ft from the wall. Anyone have this photo?

One of my favorites as well:
img477.imageshack.us/img477…

I have no idea who has rights to the image, so use it at your own discretion.

Tom Fralich · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 0
Abram Herman wrote: One of my favorites as well: img477.imageshack.us/img477… I have no idea who has rights to the image, so use it at your own discretion.

Sweet! I'd forgotten all about the screamers on the first piece. LOL!

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

I especially like the brand new haulbag lying on the ground. That'll come in handy at the Short Wall.

Kyle Wills · · Whidbey Island, WA · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 1,165

Ha-freakin-larious photo, thanks for the post

Pat C · · Honolulu · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 45

you should aid illusion dweller.

Adam Stackhouse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 14,185

Aren't there a couple of aid lines to the right of Coarse and Buggy? They've since gone free, but nobody would ever be on them again...

BTW, why would aiding C&B be "very poor form?" It would go clean, and time wise, wouldn't be much different than a toprope dog-a-thon...IMHO

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
Andy Laakmann wrote:Have a chance to be in JTree for two days this week, but we'll have our two young kids in tow so probably not any actual climbing for us. Anyone have suggestions for a crack to clean aid solo practice on? This is about all we could get done with our two active kids. Requirements - * Flat base * Not far from the road * Not likely to get in anyone's way (um, yeah, like clean aiding Double Cross) * Continuous crack top to bottom * Good anchor options top and bottom (since we'll be taking turns aid soloing it) The first climb that popped into my head is Coarse and Buggy - and that isn't too popular usually. I've lead it free climbing before and remember a perfect top-to-bottom crack. This has the added benefit of being a sweet climb to TR if the kids cooperate! Any other suggestions? I know... how about Illusion Dweller... hardeharhar.

Drive to J Tree, close your eyes, have a friend spin you three times, point your finger in front of you. Thats the crack you seek...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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