Looking for a first over night climb

Hi,

So I am somewhat new to trad climbing (couple years)and would like to start getting into large multi-pitch climbs. I really want to find a climb at my grade level which is long enough to spend a night on the wall (even if a one day push is possible)- I'll climb at a leisurely pace and practice hauling and bivying.
I am looking for a climb around 5.4 or 5.5. I do not feel comfortable leading anything higher than 5.6 pitches on gear. I lead up to 11's on sport though.I have done a handful of 3 pitch climbs around 350ft, but thats the highest so far.
Also, I do not have a portaledge so the climb would preferably have a decent 2-3 person ledge on it. if not I'm sure I could rent a ledge somewhere..

Does anyone have any suggestions of climbs in the adirondacks, gunks, New Hampshire, maine, etc area? I am from Toronto and not too familiar with the climbing beta for the U.S.

Thanks for the help!

Matt

I can only speak for the Gunks, but there's no climb that should take you more than 2 hours, 3 hours max, assuming no screwups and a reasonably experienced team. That said, there's really no reason you couldn't just do any of the classic 5.5-5.6 routes that go up to the GT Ledge and camp out. I've done it a couple times. Here's a pic from November... we went up High Exposure around midnight and hung out till dawn.

2 quick inequalities:

Necessity of a portaledge =/= generally easier than 5.6

big (or even medium) "walls" =/= New England

I'm kind of curious as to your motivation for this. You mentioned climbing trad, but not aid. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but there aren't many places in North America, or even the world, where you will be spending a night "on the wall" if you are free climbing. Much more common is the "alpine" idea - hike in until you reach technical terrain, set up your little camp, and at some horrendously early hour the next morning get up and keep going until you summit. With a full day, you can knock out 1000+ feet free climbing without much difficulty at all (I did the E. Buttress of Middle Cathedral in Yosemtie for my second "big" trad climb, and trust me, we were moving slow as shit). With more experience and no crowds, and a before-dawn start, 2000+ feet. There aren't many walls bigger than that.

If you're looking to move into "big wall"/aid climbing, I have no advice, since I have no experience in this.

EDIT: All that being said, I totally understand the desire to just give it a try. I agree with Jon H above - top out and bivy is more practical in this area. Beware of camping regulations - you can't get away with that in areas like Cathedral Ledge or Whitehorse (both in NH). This is also not advised on Mount Washington or Katahdin, for reasons that are hopefully obvious.

matthewb wrote:Hi, So I am somewhat new to trad climbing (couple years)and would like to start getting into large multi-pitch climbs. I really want to find a climb at my grade level which is long enough to spend a night on the wall (even if a one day push is possible)- I'll climb at a leisurely pace and practice hauling and bivying. I am looking for a climb around 5.4 or 5.5. I do not feel comfortable leading anything higher than 5.6 pitches on gear. I lead up to 11's on sport though.I have done a handful of 3 pitch climbs around 350ft, but thats the highest so far. Also, I do not have a portaledge so the climb would preferably have a decent 2-3 person ledge on it. if not I'm sure I could rent a ledge somewhere.. Does anyone have any suggestions of climbs in the adirondacks, gunks, New Hampshire, maine, etc area? I am from Toronto and not too familiar with the climbing beta for the U.S. Thanks for the help! Matt

Sticking with the Gunks, it's against regulation to camp anywhere other than the Slime (I think). But if you are to do it, just for the hell of it. Do it out of clear earshot of people and be the last person to climb and first person to be out. I don't remember any 5.4 climbs other than Beginner's Delight that get you to a well protected ledge on pitch 2. I'm pretty sure behind that big rock can fit 2 people but very uncomfortable. You don't even need bivy, just rough it. Next morning, you can rap down or finish the last 40 ft.

I have fond memories of being at this stage in my climbing. I could only lead 5.8, lived in Chattanooga, but was just dying to have some sort of a multi day adventure. Some friends and I ventured over to North Carolina and spent a week climbing at looking glass. We climbed our first multi pitch routes together, and towards the end of the trip, climbed The Nose over two days. We started up at about 6pm with a army surplus duffel bag rapped in duck tape for a haul bag. Four of us slept on the parking lot ledge, which despite its size, does not offer many flat spots for a good night sleep. The next morning with sore hips and shoulders, we made our daring summit push up the final 150ft of forth class terrain and then started our arduous descent (3 whole rappels!).

I would comfortably solo this route in less then an hour were I to go back there now, and even at the time, it would have only taken us an afternoon had we tried. All told though, this ascent still stands out as one of the most memorable I've done.

Matt,

I totally agree with Chris S. About a year ago I had the exact same desire, and received some good feedback from posters on other forums. But the fact of the matter is - it's not a necessity to spend a night on the wall out here in New England while free climbing. However if you're in it for the experience then you should definitely do it! Somewhere along the leaning curve, my efforts transitioned from slow & steady to fast & light…maybe that's why I never followed through on my plans to bivvy on one of New England's classic climbs.

Good luck and keep us posted!

-J

RC.com discussion;page=unread#unread

neclimbs.com Topic: "Vertical Camping on Cathedral Ledge"

hey matt-

just keep climbing. eventually an overnight climb will happen. :)

The girdle traverse of Whitehorse Ledge. Right to left is about 20 pitches and only the last pitch really is over 5.6 or so. You can Biv on the Sundeck halfway, nice. This route is real good and will teach you a ton about rope work etc. You also are never more than 2 raps off the ground if you freak out.

I know its not in your area, but The Mummy and The Daddy are two climbs that would be doable as "ledge camping" options in North Carolina's Linville Gorge area, at your grade.

I to remember having this desire to spend the night on the rock. I tried once but a partners broken backpack strap stopped that plan and sent us back to the bar. You will soon realize you need a lot of crap for a somewhat comfortable night. Hauling anything on 5.5 or 5.6 will push your patience and muscles to the limit. Stuff is better off on your back. If your climbing 5.11 sport it shouldnt be long and you'll be climbing steep enough trad to make hauling easier. Get into aid climbing if you like spending a lot of time on the rock hauling stuff. Come out west and you'll find that getting up way early going all day and getting back to the car late is more rewarding. But then again I have never overnighted on a rock route only mountaineering routes.

We spent a very comfortable night on a ledge most of the way up the Case Route on Wallface in the High Peaks of the 'Daks. The route is WAY casual and as mentioned above, you wouldn't be able to haul. If I remember correctly it isn't over 5.4 anywhere.

john strand wrote:The girdle traverse of Whitehorse Ledge. Right to left is about 20 pitches and only the last pitch really is over 5.6 or so. You can Biv on the Sundeck halfway, nice. This route is real good and will teach you a ton about rope work etc. You also are never more than 2 raps off the ground if you freak out.

This is a great idea. It sounds like a grand adventure, but at a moderate grade. The area above the Echo Roof seems pretty "adventurous" to say the least.

Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse Ledge

Thanks for all the info guys!

Like I said before, I know that basically all the "big" climbs around here don't require a two day push, it is just something I'd like to do for fun. I do a lot of wilderness camping and I think setting up a camp a few hundred feet up with no one else around would be pretty badass.
The Girdle Traverse sounds pretty fun, and definitely something to consider when I make the trip to the U.S. this summer.
I eventually want to build up the skill to climb Prodigal Sun in Zion and spend a night on that wall, so thats why I'd like to start messing around here instead of there right away.
I guess since I'm new to trad I have just got hooked on the idea of being able to climb really high routes (not very many super high sport routes). When I get to the top of a 300ft climb, I just want to keep going up! I would love to climb something around the 1000ft mark.
Geir had a good point. I guess the more experience I get the bigger cooler climbs I will encounter. I will just have to be patient and eventually a 1000+ft climb will see me on it one day.

Oh and as for the other comments about aid climbing, I really want to start aiding big wall climbs. I know that there are few free climbs that go higher that 1500ish ft (unless you're Tommy Caldwell and just start freeing all the aid routes on El Cap)and doing a very "big wall" somewhere in pakistan or a similar region is my 15-20 year goal! This is just the start..

What about Wallface in the 'Daks? I think there are some moderate routes that would be 800-1000'? its certainly remote, and even if you didn't sleep on route, you'd (probably) need to camp at the base.

What about Johnny Vegas/Solar Slab in Red Rock? Total of 13 pitches, 5.6-5.7, all bolted belay stations... Hauling would be a nightmare, and I wouldnet recomend it. But totall possible to make that an over night.

Geir Hundal wrote:hey matt- just keep climbing. eventually an overnight climb will happen. :)

This is the truth. You haven't really lived until you've used your rope as a blanket and shivered your way through the night to first light.

I keep a space blanket tucked in my helmet ever since.

If I were you I would check out the prow on cathedral ledge. the first pitch goes at 5.6 c1 and you can aid the rest of it at clean c2 but very easy and obvious. When I first started climbing I learned to aid and trust my pecies by weighting them and seeing what worked and what didnt, being that you can climb up to 11 sport it would seem that you are pretty strong but dont trust your trad placements, aiding would build up your gear knowledge and boost confidence. On the forth pitch (space station belay) there is a bomber two bolt anchor and a perfect exposed setting to get your ledge set up and chill for the next day. You could blast to the top in the morning with the triangular roof pitch at c2 and a pitch of 5.10 or c1 to the top, there is also the original finish which goes right at the fifth pitch anchor and check in at 5.6.

There are some routes that are long enough that when you are free climbing it will take you probably 1+ day, but generally not in the range that you aree talking about. In the Bugaboos, if you are free climbing something like All Along the Watchtower most likely you will bivi (though its been done once in a day about 2yrs ago). Most of these routes you are free climbing in the 5.12 range though so its outside of your criteria.

In Vegas, if you are free climbing you should not spend more then a day on a route. Rainbow Wall Original will take you the daylight to do free (including the approach and the descent but not much more).

If you're climbing at 5.8 you could climb moby grape on cannon cliff and bivy above the fickle finger pitch. There's a large ledge up there. But it is cannon afterall so watch out for the rockfall!

Actually, I can think of an excellent climb for the OP: Standard Route on Whitehorse.

Nine pitches in total, and you can sleep on the Lunch Ledge, atop pitch 4. Most of the hauls really wouldn't be that bad either, since the route is fairly straight up, and fairly slabby, without a lot of knobs to catch.

Here 's a link to a good guide for the climb:

Sounds like it would be a great adventure!

GO

I second Lee Smith's recommendation of Case Route on Wallface in the Daks. Super easy terrain except one 5.5 move near the top. For the most part it follows 4th class ledges as they zig-zag up the cliff. The ledges would make hauling a nightmare but sleeping would be pretty casual. It is set in a beautiful remote area. Only problem is that the Daks get ALOT of rain and even more black flies if you go at the wrong time of year.