Mountain Project Logo

Rope Solo devices

Original Post
Ben Mahaffey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 50

I am looking to do some TR rope soloing and was wondering what people have used, liked and disliked. I have used a petzl shunt but have not been too impressed with the performance and was thinking about getting either a mini or pro trax and trying that out. Any suggestions would be great

Chip · · Norf Kackalacky · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 0

Rock climbers should take a look at arborist climbing systems for self belay on short routes. The nicest benefit is no heavy mechanical device on your harness. We use advanced, self tending friction hitches sort of like a Prussic made from 8mm or 10mm heat resistant hi-mod cord. A Tree climber can cover thousands of feet on these system every week... they work.

The big difference that I can see is, arborists use semi-static double braid rope rather than dynamic kernmantle. I've used the system on dynamic rope but not much because it's so springy. We also generally use hitches with a doubled rope technique. They will arrest a fall on single rope no problem but you have to reset the knot to get it sliding again.

Problem is, you generally have to learn it from an arborist or rec climber. I know of no internet resources that fully illustrate the system... liability and all that. A good place to start though is here.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Do a search on supertopo. There was a detailed thread about this and at least one good photo of the double mini traxion set up, of Kauk I think doing laps at the Cookie. I've been meaning to track it down since I'm thinking about doing the same.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Here's a link to that supertopo thread: supertopo.com/climbing/thre…;tn=20.

Posts 35 and 36 have a picure of Kauk using the double setup.

sam.f · · Santa Cruz, CA · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 145

I like the Microcender backed-up with the MiniTraxion. The Microcender is smaller, lighter, and has no teeth. I've fallen on many times with no issues. However, should it fail, you've got the beefier, toothy, MiniTraxion. I use the looping of cord like Dave C suggested and a rotor isn't a bad idea either... Also, as FatDad said, there's alot of info out there on this subject, so don't listen to me, search it up! Good luck and be safe.

Ben Mahaffey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 50

thanks for the links and the advice, i was thinking about one mini trax and then tying back up knots. Rob when you used only one i assume that you tied back up knots but still felt a bit nervous. After looking at the pictures on supertopo it looks like you could just use one mini with a chest harness and then use back up knots periodically. From what people are saying the reasons to use two are redundancy (but a back up knot would take care of that) and then to prevent shock loading (and that is just by using one on a chest harness. Is my logic correct? I would like to try some new systems and i dont want to drop the money on two minis if there is a way around it. Thanks for all the good advice so far

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,341

Don't count on a backup knot left in the rope to keep you alive. If you were to take say a 20 footer onto a knot it could blow the device apart or rupture the rope. Always use two devices. If you already have a Shunt then adding a minitraxion will be close to perfect. Use some surgical tubing or shock cord to elevate the shunt into a loaded position attached to your belay loop and leave the mini hanging from the bottom of your loop.

BTW I used a single mini with backup knots for years, but then two people I know had their devices not engage and both got lucky. Ever sense it is two devices for me thank you very much.

Ben Mahaffey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 50

awesome i will give the shunt/mini trax a go and see how it works. thanks for all the input

ben

Amos Patrick · · Estes Park · Joined Dec 2001 · Points: 337

A couple years ago I wrote a short blog about my setup. Check it out here if you are interested.
amospatrick.blogspot.com/20…

Matt Steen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 162

I usually climb alone with my friend Mr Ushba. He always provides a simple, smooth, frictionless belay...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Rope Solo devices"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.