WTF?

Great actor. Stupid movie. Fits the thread:

WTF

John, you do any very early weekday climbing?

Bummer. I'm bad tomorrow, but I'll take this cyber match-making private. Incoming.

Interesting take Killis, pretty even handed, and I sure as shit laughed at your post.
I have a couple of questions.

One, are all of this guy Goss' routes chipped, or does he put up nice natural lines as well (not that this should excuse chipping).

Two, is it culturally acceptable around Utah to chip at will....or is it just ok at choss piles?
I mean, out where I live in California, the accepted ethic can very by the mile. i.e. I know sport climbing areas near the Valley that are manufactured and its accepted, but if you did that to anything in the Ditch or up in the Meadows you would get killed by the same folks who did the chipping at the glued up choss ampitheater that they call home in the winter season. Seems like this might be the same at Red Rocks too. i.e. you can chip in the pullouts, but the high country is more or less off limits.

Either way, I think chipping and gluing is douchtastic, and its even worse that this guy Goss is a guide. I hope he doesn't pass that ethic on to people he guides, especially if they wouldn't be smart enough to know the difference between chipping choss and chipping in Toulumne. Further, I am not sure that just because he published a guidebook, that it should excuse him from vandalizing rock, chossy or not.

Three things:

1. DABDABDABDABDABDAB

2. Killis Howard's post rules because it tells it like it is. See that kids? The post is obviously opinionated but it contains a certain amount of this thing called objectivity.

2. I suppose once you climb on rock with bolted on holds, a 2-3 foot tick mark is totally acceptable. Wait....who am I kidding - no matter how hard it is, the tick mark to the giant artificial foothold is almost as lame as the glued on holds.

3. The word "douchtastic" in the previous post totally makes up for the mis-spelling of the word "vary".

Wow, someone who knows how to correctly writ them thar word thingys.
Touche' Shaft.
Yes, the ethics in California are very variable.

Why did nobody tell me about this?
WTF?

Is it still there?

Shawn Mitchell wrote:Great actor. Stupid movie.

Not stupid. Stupendous!

Nothing to really add here,
I just wanted to post another pu.. -- cat shot

Buff - nice kitty pic.

What's this world coming to? Balloon boy, stick clipping up a route, Summit Ford treats people like shit, and now this.

I'm going climbing.

All you hippies need to stop worrying about the environment and open your eyes to the future of our sport

Heh. I like ^^^^ this.

I saw and took a photo of the same setup at crawdad canyon. That is not the ethic there, but it's there. There was that overhanging jug fest and some crazy rope rig right by it. WTF summed up my reaction stumbling upon that nonsense.

Funny. I think this is the third time I"ve seena complaint about the privately owned Crawdad Canyon, but no one ever posts photo's of privately owned quarries. Or how about mine shafts... or even the dugout home sites along Kane springs road in Moab.

Its private and its so minor its not even worth the posting.

Avery N wrote:This whole "transition from gym to outside" thing is becoming a real issue! Seriously, though -- that's horrible.

AGree it's horrible, BUT as an old traddie', well how is this any less damage or different from a string of bolts under there and calling it a 'sport' route? A bolted or glued on hold vs a bolt hanger? I see little difference.

Whoever did that deserves to have this ass kicked, both legs shattered, and their wallet stolen.

koreo wrote:Whoever did that deserves to have this ass kicked, both legs shattered, and their wallet stolen.

Missed the part about private land?
What if they smashed the boulder to pieces and sold it to a stone mason?
I think its more of a why bother question

Killis Howard wrote: That's one example. Rap bolting, TR headpointing tactics on multipitch climbs to produce FAs as well as contrived "X rated" FFAs of longstanding aid routes after-you guessed it:lots of TRing, and, yes, chipping have found their way way out yonder. Nothing is sacred, so it seems.

The only thing I have a problem with is chipping.

There's also folks putting up plenty of long routes ground up with no previewing and no bolts.
Last time I checked you were talking trash on them as well.

josh