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Best Rubber?

Original Post
Chase Roskos · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 90

So I'm going to treat myself to a Christmas present. I wore out my Red Chili's some time ago and I want to get them resoled. I was very pleased with their rubber, though I thought it wore out a bit quick. I am not extremely concerned with sensitivity, but my main interest is durability and stickiness. My current prospects are the Vibram XS or XSV, Stealth C4 or Stealth Onyx. Which would you go with?

Phil Lauffen · · Innsbruck, AT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 3,113

+1 for vibram

Jake D. · · Northeast · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 365

I'm a fan of the XS that comes on the Solutions, miura VS etc all of my sportivas have it now.

Geir www.ToofastTopos.com · · Tucson/DMR · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 2,751

i haven't used onyx, but of the remaining three i prefer xsv.

Shawn Mitchell · · Broomfield · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 250

I have Onyx on the 5.10 Gambit and haven't been impressed. May well be bad footwork, but sometimes the shoes slip from bumps and edges that it seems like other shoes would stick to.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,093

onyx is the shiznit, plain and simple. i haven't climbed on anything that i feel is even close.

dgomatt · · durango · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 0

i really like the new vibram, semms to wear pretty well and work on lots of different stone.

John Maguire · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 195

Trojan Ultra Thin

Allen Hill · · FIve Points, Colorado and Pine · Joined Jun 2004 · Points: 1,410

Love the Onyx. Good news that Denver will finally have a local resoler.

Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 799

There was an article a few years back in Rock & Ice or Climbing that tested climbing rubber. They could find no discernable difference in "stickiness" among the various brands.

John Bradbury · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 380

Spadout did a test awhile back and Evolv actually ended up first over Vibram and 5.10.

Climbing Rubber Test

I prefer XS myself.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,093

both of these tests didn't really simulate actual climbing very well though. and anybody who thinks boreal rubber is any better than wearing a vaseline covered hockey puck is out to lunch in a serious way. evolv rubber is pretty good. it climbs really well straight out of the box, fairly sticky. i find that it isn't stiff enough to edge very well though, and it wears really quick.

i am pretty much the imelda marcos of the climbing world, and i swear there isn't anything that can touch onyx. perfect blend of sticky as a mofo, stiff enough to edge like a mofo, and every pair of galileos that i have had (5), i have worn out the tops before i have worn out the bottoms. black gold, straight up.

Phil Lauffen · · Innsbruck, AT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 3,113
slim wrote: i am pretty much the imelda marcos of the climbing world,

all right, you're gonna have to explain this one to me...

Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880
Locker wrote:C4 or Onyx is my recommendation locker owner/resoler Positive Resoles, Jtree (soon to be Positive Resoles Denver)

Be sure to announce when you get set up.
+1 for Onyx, although you have to simply trust your resoler that's what you're getting. 5.10 should print the logo on the sheets of the stuff.

Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880
Phil Lauffen wrote: all right, you're gonna have to explain this one to me...

Wife of a Philippines dictator who was deposed back in the 80's; left behind 1000's of shoes.

Jay Eggleston · · Denver · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 21,894
ShaunG wrote: A scientific test was performed in a lab and the winner...(drum roll) was Evolve. I think it is the Trax rubber that surpassed all other brands.

Could you provide a link to said test?

YDPL8S · · Santa Monica, Ca. · Joined Aug 2003 · Points: 540

Which one "edges" the best?

Red · · Tacoma, Toyota · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 1,625

Trojan Magnum Thin for protection.

Stealth anything for climbing. Onyx is probably the best you can get for resoles right now.IMHO Once that new Mystique rubber is available for resoles that will be sweet! That stuff is crazy sticky!!!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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