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3 days of climbing around Tucson...

Original Post
Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 10,263

I'm going to be visiting Tucson for the first time next month and climbing with my colorful and wonderful partner Charles Vernon. I have three days and Charles has offered to take me to Cochise for one of those days and, if the weather permits, climb Abracadaver with me. He has informed me that the second pitch is the prize lead and, since he's done it already, has graciously offered to let me take the sharp end.

My question is, for the other two days I'm in Tucson, I'd like to climb at Mt. Lemmon. I'm sure Charles has some ideas for what we can do, but I'd like to see what others might think would be the best way to spend that time. The only ideas I had were to climb at the Orifice, but I guess the January weather might prohibit this, or to try one of the Golden Beaver climbs but I'm not sure how involved they are and fear that two days might not be enough time. Would love to hear other suggestions on how to spend three kick-ass days climbing around Tucson!

PS: I remember seeing some routes posted recently on mp.com of some huge visor of rock that was criss-crossed with recently-developed, overhanging sport climbs. For the life of me I can't find it now and I thought it was on Mt. Lemmon.

Eric J · · Western Slope, CO · Joined May 2005 · Points: 0

Josh,

Is this what you were referring to? I ran across it while doing research for an upcoming trip.

mountainproject.com/v/arizo…
mountainproject.com/v/arizo…

Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 10,263

That's it... El Torito? I seem to remember the area being called the Helmet, but where did the area description go?

1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 11,127

That area would be the Helmet. A bit cold this time of year. Where to climb is temperature based and what your tolerance is. Some people love 50 and shady. Mt lemmon has a number of sunny faces that can be climbed on pretty cold days. Beaver wall is one of them. Josh, call me as I can tell you more over the phone faster than typing it in. No hidden agenda or innuendo here. Eric 520 870-5445

Joe Kreidel · · Boulder/San Antonio · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 1,495

If you are looking for a steep and hard sport climbing alternative to The Helmet, check out The Beach at Milagrosa Canyon.

mountainproject.com/v/arizo…

members.cox.net/hendrixson/…

ryan dillon · · Tucson, AZ. · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 325

La Milagrosa is always fun this time of year.

Jimbo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,310

Hold on a minute!! Is this guy a member of the posse????

Brigette Beasley · · Monroe, WA · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 275
Jimbo wrote:Hold on a minute!! Is this guy a member of the posse????
1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 11,127

He's a dead ringer for Jimbo too!

Bobby Hanson · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Oct 2001 · Points: 1,270

Okay, I'm here now(!) and I'd really love to get out sometime this week. Anyone interested? I'll join any possee.

Jimbo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,310

I use a way bigger spoon than that little poser.

Eric D · · Gnarnia · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 235

Hey there Bobby, slow down. You can't just join Tucson climbing possees. We have try-outs. You have to survive the beanfest crashpad game, eat 5 slices of Z's pizza in under an hour, and then top it off by having 6 pints and then do the Hard Day at the Orifice swing. If you pass we will celebrate through a formal, deeply religious, beaning ceremony.

If you lead Golden Beaver left on gear you get to create your own posse that we have to try out for.

Bobby Hanson · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Oct 2001 · Points: 1,270
Eric D wrote:Hey there Bobby, slow down. You can't just join Tucson climbing possees. We have try-outs. You have to survive the beanfest crashpad game, eat 5 slices of Z's pizza in under an hour, and then top it off by having 6 pints and then do the Hard Day at the Orifice swing. If you pass we will celebrate through a formal, deeply religious, beaning ceremony. If you lead Golden Beaver left on gear you get to create your own posse that we have to try out for.

I'm game. I think I have a better chance at Golden Beaver on gear than I do the 5 slices of Z's (the fact that I'm a 5.9/5.10 climber should tell you that I know something of Z's).

I just want to do some climbing here! All of my old climbing partners moved away.

Joe Kreidel · · Boulder/San Antonio · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 1,495

What is this Z's pizza of which you speak??? Maybe I'll have to submit my Posse Application so I can find out about this....

EDIT: No application needed, google enlightened me. So I've been living just down the street from this place for a year and a half and no one ever told me it was good??? Dinner plans sealed.

tbrain · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 95

Joe - You and Kerry have been in Tucson too long not to know of Z's!!! How sad that I've now moved away and can't take you, Kerry, and the kids there. ...guess the four of you will just have to come visit me in Boston and have pizza here instead! :)

Joe Kreidel · · Boulder/San Antonio · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 1,495

So you guys weren't kidding, and neither was I. I ordered a pizza, brought it home, and the thing was delicious. I only managed 4 pieces tonight (I'll have to try harder to make your A-Team, Eric). Tbrain, seriously, this place is a mile from my home...why didn't anyone tell me about this place!

And Bobby, I should be climbing somewhere next Monday and Tuesday if you are still in town and can get out on those days.

Bobby Hanson · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Oct 2001 · Points: 1,270

Thanks, Joe. I'm leaving Monday, so that won't work. Oh well. :/

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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