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Ryan Malarky
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Dec 2, 2009
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Fort Collins, CO
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 110
So, I'm heading to Red Rocks this weekend for the first time and was looking for a couple shorter multi-pitch climbs to do. Lotta Balls and Black Magic looked perfect. But, I noticed they were north-facing and I imagine it'd be nice to be in the sun. Anyone know of anything similar in terms of length and difficulty that might be south-facing? Having a few route options near each other would be great. The place is huge, so I bet someone could come up with some ideas faster than I could searching through the guidebook.
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Woodchuck ATC
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Dec 2, 2009
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2007
· Points: 3,305
I love the place, but have a real problem with the @#%%&* guidebooks lacking simple, clarified and accurate directions to find walls and routes. I can stand there at the pullout and SEE the Magic Bus, but dam'd if I can get into the correct gully or drainage to find it once I drop down into the draws and canyons. Just terrible route location without having a local to help out, and I had always gone out there by myself to climb. There are tons of nice routes in Black Corridor, the Gallery, Panty Wall and Magic Bus( from what I read anyway). Enjoy, as this is the best time to get out there.
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Greg Barnes
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Dec 2, 2009
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American Safe Climbing Asso…
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 3,423
Some ideas here: supertopo.com/climbingareas… The newer classic Birdland isn't in there, because the FAs asked me not to put it in the guidebook so it wouldn't get crowded! (in case you don't know, it got SUPER crowded just on internet beta, before it was in any guidebook)
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Andrew Carson
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Dec 2, 2009
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Wilson, WY
· Joined Jun 2006
· Points: 1,520
Angel Food Wall is actually more north facing than anything else... not to say it wouldn't be ok, depending upon your cold tolerance. Get Handren's book and try south-facing Pine Creek, like Varnishing Pt. for starters. Any canyon climbs are subject to the sun going behind the walls on the south side of the canyon. Just look at Wilson if you go into Oak Creek, and then consider the arc of the sun in December. You'll get the picture. Go early and try Johnny Vegas (Oak Cr.) Get up to the Solar Slab terrace and you'll be in the sun for the climbs starting from there. Moderate Mecca has lots of sun, lots of shorter routes and is a fun easy-going kind of day. Kraft Mtn gets lots of sun, also. Classic Crack over there is another good one. Have fun -- the Handren book is going to help you alot. Or here, or the SuperTopo book is quite good, too. A favorite of mine is Diet Delight, but it's east-facing so get over there early so you can be up and off before the sun bails on you.
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Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
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Dec 2, 2009
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Vegas
· Joined May 2005
· Points: 4,115
In Red Springs/Calico Basin (a 3 minute drive from the Red Rock Loop entrance). Short approaches by Red Rock standards. Super fun; easy route-finding. On The Riding Hood Wall in Calico Basin. Physical Graffiti - 2 pitches 5.6 -walk off Moderate Mecca area. Valentine's Day - single pitch 5.8+ rap off On Red Springs Rock Classic Corner - single pitch 5.8, -easy walk off Pine Creek Canyon Anything on Brass Wall is going to have full sun. Easy route-finding. Varnishing Point , 5.8+ fun lieback pitch- 2 pitches- rap off Birdland (Popular, and crowded, but classic) 5.7+, 5 pitches, all bolted anchors- easy to bail from-rap off Straight Shooter 5.9+ single pitch classic crack (I led it when I was a 5.7/5.8 Red Rock leader, and had to hang at crux) but did it; very fun, and you can TR Sidewinder a crimpy, balancy, and fun 5.11 from Straight Shooter's anchors. In Willlow Springs Super short approach (5 minutes) so it doesn't matter how cold, and shady it is, right? ; ) Easy Route-finding. In Ragged Edges Area Ragged Edges 5.8, classic 2 pitch route, easy walk off Tonto a fun 5.4/5.5 a fun solo, or easy lead near Ragged Edges, easy walk-off, or rap off (if someone didn't remove the rap anchor/slings for the millionth time). Oak Creek Canyon; Solar Slab wall/area: we call it sizzle slab, especially in the summer! Johnny Vegas to Solar Slab , all 5.6, except Johnny Vegas feels harder to me(like 5.7) compared to SS. Fairly easy route-finding by Red Rock standards. If you don't have time for JV, and SS combined, just do Johnny Vegas to the giant Solar Slab terrace/ledge, and rap the Solar Slab Gully, (or downclimb if you are competent at down-climbing easier stuff; we always down-climb except for the last pitch; pitch one of the SS Gully route), or rap from JV, but ropes can get snagged easier on that route. PS: if it's cloudy, the sunny routes don't matter, really. : )
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Cory Harelson
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Dec 2, 2009
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Boise, ID
· Joined Mar 2008
· Points: 2,410
Olive Oil on Rose Tower is in the sun at least until early afternoon and is a great multipitch 5.7 jug haul. Another climb to consider is Dark Shadows (5.8). As the name suggests it is definitley NOT in the sun; however, the huge dihedral tends to block out the wind so it can actually still be quite comfortable to climb on a cool day. Also I've heard Solar Slab is nice. And if you want single pitch trad on bullet proof desert varnish go to the chocolate rocks, which are south facing and sunny. No matter what you cilmb you'll love it, Red Rocks is awesome!
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Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
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Dec 2, 2009
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Vegas
· Joined May 2005
· Points: 4,115
FYI: Olive Oil has the reputation of being a nightmare for quite a few, first-time Red Rock climbers to locate the start. Often parties start up something else, and have to leave gear to bail when they realize they're not on route.
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Ryan Malarky
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Dec 2, 2009
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Fort Collins, CO
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 110
Wow! Thanks everyone for the quick suggestions. I'm sure this will give me plenty to mull over the next few days before I head out there.
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Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
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Dec 2, 2009
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Vegas
· Joined May 2005
· Points: 4,115
Ryan, if it's going to be cloudy, anyway, you should hop on Lotta Balls; I'll never forget leading that spicy pitch 2. Classic pitch! http://www.mountainproject.com/v/nevada/red_rock/first_creek_canyon/105732242 Also, if Lotta Balls is crowded, Trihardral, to the left of Lotta balls is decent, except for a little softer rock, and some PG-13. The route-finding on the route isn't too bad; I led the entire route, as a 5.7/5.8 trad leader, and it was doable, and fun. It's by no means a classic route, but a good example of what Red Rock's more obscure routes feel like; a little more adventurous; no bolts, or bolted anchors, some questionable rock.
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