trad + 5.13 + Tucson = ?

Anyone know of a good and hard trad route here?

you might have to make one.

i'd be interested in helping on that one. :)

As far as established routes go, the closest things might be Golden Beaver (12+) or Golden Beaver Left(13-). They both have a few bolts in them, but good gear can be placed instead. Supposedly there is a big roof somewhere around that might go free at 5.hard.

Crap, as I type this I realize that you've already done the original GB. Do the left.

Yeah, I'll help make one with you. I don't trad climb but we can head up Lemmon one of these days, find a nice 5.10 trad route then take a hammer and start knocking off all the good holds.

No problem!

= does not equal

Gritstone, Squamish?? Get a hold of Didier..

MichaelClimbs wrote:True True. Then there are Famous stories of cracks getting greased.

Wow, good idea, here I'm wanting to knock holds off with a hammer when a quart of olive oil would do the same thing.

Maybe you could just do it in tennis shoes, I heard that will turn a 5.11 into a 5.13 in a hurry.

Looks like this thread is going with the norm on this site; way off topic!

TucsonAZ wrote: Wow, good idea, here I'm wanting to knock holds off with a hammer when a quart of olive oil would do the same thing. Maybe you could just do it in tennis shoes, I heard that will turn a 5.11 into a 5.13 in a hurry.

I find dress shoes to be the ticket. I like to have a little class while I thrutch.

I think you'd have to find new ones, mostly, Dave.

The east Face Route of Rappel is pretty featured but STEEP, and A4.
There are some mysterious routes(Croft?Skinner?) on End Pinnacle that look COOL, hard 12? maybe 13?

Lots of cool rock at the Reef, probably some little incipient, scary zig-zaggy bouldery roof/slab corner.

Bashie Crack at Chimney is dang hard.

Maybe you have to go out to Babo and free some big aid monster!!!

MichaelClimbs wrote:Climb With a View @ Beaver Wall. It isn't Golden Beaver Left I believe.

Just to clarify, "Climb With a View" is a bolted sport climb. The route is listed incorrectly in the MP database. There is a bottoming crack that goes up and left from the horizontal crack on GB.

David, I'm going to start working a hard trad project soon. There is little question that it would be among the hardest in SoAZ. So my guess is it won't take long for me to be in way over my head and let others join in the 'fun'. PM me if interested.

I would also agree that the overhaning east side of Rap is the next hard wall on the Lemmon to see free activity. Certainly the potential for hard mixed routes. Plus that wall offers interesting problems posed by the enormous void below the route, something as simple as lowering off wouldn't be possible without a 100M rope!

That sounds like a challenge if I've ever heard one. Any takers?