Snow on Broadway and at base of lower E. face Longs Peak?

Hi there,

Does anyone have current information on the amount of snow at the base of the lower east face of Longs (considering pros and cons of light shoe approach to Craig's Crack or Overhang Dihedral) and snow on Broadway near the bivi cave (considering a bivi and melting snow)?

Thanks for any help. I suspect the approach is fine, and there is snow to climber's left of the bivi cave on the steep N facing aspect of
Broadway as I recall, but wanted to check.

Regards,

Tom Bohanon

Picture says a thousand words?

(Dawn, Sat, 8/1/09). Almost certainly the new snow/ frost/ ice on the N facing slopes is gone after 2 dry and warming days. Drips & little bits of ice coming down Sat (8/1) though.

It's been two weeks, but 7/18 the bivy situation on Broadway was good for two people. Unfortunately for me we had three. There was plenty of snow to melt and a nice seep down by the COD raps. If you don't get the alpine start climbing the COD you will be plenty wet by the time you get to Broadway(I was at least). You might want to climb it in your sneakers or bring an extra pair of climbing shoes.

Today it could be completely different......

Was there yesterday 8/3. North Chimney was doable although not cake. The approach staight up the snow to it was best. Snow was very firm for AM start and if you didn't have steps to follow an ice axe was rec. Following in the track from the day before made it doable although not pleasant. I wouldn't consider a Crack of Delight trip an improvement in time or conditions (wet and dripping) over the N. Chimney. Snow at the Bivy cave is old and funky not my choice for melting although the snow on the end of Broadway on the left side of the Diamond might provide better options for that. I'm sure if you cast about a bit you can find a drip that will provide what you need. As Kevin said the third pitch is usually wet other than that preceeding 2 -3 days weather is your biggest determinant.

We bivvied on Broadway on Sunday night, 8/2 and climbed the Casual yesterday, 8/3. Jeff, I think we might have the party ahead of you on the Casual.

Snow at the base of the Lower East Face: There's a lot, and it's fairly steep. If you're planning on crossing the snow in the morning, it will be very hard. Numerous parties complained about having to spend a lot of time chopping steps. I'd recommend crampons or an ice axe.

We climbed the snow in the late afternoon, on our way up to the bivy on Broadway. The snow was soft enough to kick steps, so we felt comfortable with light shoes and a hiking pole each for balance/security.

If I were going up in the morning, I'd have one person wear crampons and trail a rope. Lead person sets an anchor at the base of N. Chimney, second yards his or her way up the rope.

Snow on Broadway: We melted snow from the snowpatch right below the bivy cave without any complaints. For cleaner snow, try the big snowpatch to the south of it. We found one good drip (even at night) at the base of this big snowpatch, although it felt like 3rd class to get to it.

Best,
Jeff

Thanks to all for the above info and photo....that's what I needed to know. I love this forum!

Best,

Tom Bohanon

Hello all,
I'm planning on climbing Pervertical early next week. Any info on current conditions for N. Chimney and the route?
Thanks!
Jonathan

Pervertical is very dry and in good condition. Did Ariana yesterday which shares pitches with Pervertical. I had a good look at the entire route. N. Chimney is in it's normal condition. No big deal. Snow is firm up Mills glacier. An axe or crampons would make things much easier.

Thanks Jeff.

At the moment (08/11/09) there is a fixed static line in place
across the 80' of snow to get to the base of the N. Chimney.
So you can leave your crampons and axe at home.

N. Chimney itself is completely dry.

Have fun!

I was up there on monday and I regret not bringing crampons. Something light that you can strap on over an approach shoe would be ideal.