Quick question. Can anyone give any beta on the downclimb of the First Flatiron? Looked juggy but a little steep last time I was up there. Any input would be great. Anything I need to watch out for? (besides letting go)How hard is it? Is rout finding straightforward?
I recall it having 1 exposed move (~5.2 ish?) you don't want to blow. It's not very clear where to go from the top down, IMHO. It was much easier to read the rock climbing UP the route.
When I was looking for beta, I decided to just hike up the backside of the 1st Flatiron, and climb this route to the summit, then reverse it. I would recommend doing this. I then proceeded to solo other routes.
Recommended if you know what you are doing. Not recommended if you are too lazy to procure a climbing partner. I've done both. This is all from memory. I did not check my info before sharing. Be safe, Cheers.
The downclimb begins on the west-facing cliff directly under the rappel bolts. Follow some big jugs north, straight down and then back south to a 10 foot wide ledge (which you will also pass on the rappel). This starts out vertical and appears unlikely from above to be only 4th class. The route then follows a diagonal ramp leading south. Look below to the south and you will see an eye bolt on the next ledge down, scramble down to this eye bolt (only 50' below the summit, this is the intermediate rap point for people with a 50m rope). Continue diagonalling down the face under the bolt. The bottom 50 feet are near a large pine tree which leans toward the face. You can even chimney between the rock and tree for a short section 20 feet off the ground. You end up a good 200 feet south and around the corner from the single-rope rappel landing.
Warning: it is tricky to to down-solo this route onsight, better to follow someone else.
If you're by yourself and unsure, you might want to hike up there and climb UP the route first. It is much easier to see and follow from the ground. It runs diagonally along the south side of the first and is pretty unclear from the top, but once you know where you're going it's exposed but very easy with huge holds and ledges to stand on the whole way down. The sketchiest part is right below the rap bolts up top where you have to make a semi-blind step down. I think it's rated 5.0.
Dang and I down climbed to the right along the ridge and into a gulley all the way to the climbers right side of the flatiron and just walked off. I really wished I had brought up a rope. Next time I'll try it the right way.