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Maine Climbing?

Original Post
John mac · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 105

I will be visiting Maine (near portland) in a few weeks and want to climb. I will be with all non-climbers so I need a crag with easy routes and TR access.

Any suggestions?

T Seas · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 0

Not sure how far you want to drive but the bluffs of Acadia are spectacular and since most of it you lower into, it would work great for TR. Lower them in, and z pulley them out! lol

Matty Zane · · Portland, ME · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 420

I would definetly check out Pawtuckaway in NH. Its Probably no more than an hr. drive. Lots of bouldering, but some suprisingly fun top rope climbs, all very easy to access and set up.

Lanky · · Tired · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 255
Matty Zane wrote:I would definetly check out Pawtuckaway in NH. Its Probably no more than an hr. drive. Lots of bouldering, but some suprisingly fun top rope climbs, all very easy to access and set up.

Be warned, though: Pawtuckaway is about 50% swamp, which yields some crazy mosquito swarms.

Portland is about an hour from Jockey's Cap and an hour and a half from North Conway, NH (Whitehorse, Cathedral, etc). It's 1:45 to Camden Hills (never climbed there, can't vouch for top-ropability) and 3ish to Acadia.

T. William · · Avon · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 80

Portland Headlight is alright theres a beefy bar from the old rail road at the top for TR anchors and plenty of exploring to be had. Check out newenglandbouldering.com and click state bouldering beta. Daggett Rock has good variety and all can be TR'd creativly. Maine Rock Gym is a pretty rad gym in portland. I used to work at the Indoor ascent climbing gym in dover, nh just on the other side of the border about 40 min from portland and about 40 more to p-tuk but homeboys right black flies and mosquitos with have you running for the car before long before the pump clock. I started climbing in maine if you have any question i'll do my best to answer

Danielle winters · · Morrill, Me · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 0

jmac

Check out westernmainerock.com I just found there site the other day . Theres a place called shell pond that might fit your needs . I hope to get down there myself in the next couple weeks . you can down load a topo of the cliff right from the web site . Looks like there is a mix of easy and moderate routes .
Have fun Danielle

John mac · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 105

Thanks for all the great suggestions!

Alix · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0

Check out Camden state park. Barret's cove has some really good moderate multi pitch stuff or just a little farther there is the vericals. Good stuff there. Or if you want to drive a little farther, check out the clifton crags.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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