Rope opinions

I'm looking to buy a 70m 9.8 to 10.1 with at least 8 UIAA falls for under $250... durability is a must.

I was looking at the New England Maxim Glider 9.9. It's a great price at 200, but reviews say the sheath wears quickly.

Any other suggestions? Experience with this actual rope is preferred.

Not exactly the diameter you have mentioned but... The Mammut Infinity 9.5 is a great rope for about that price. Also check out the Petzl 9.4. A friend of mine has one and its a workhorse / and light. Some people have not liked the Petzl rope but I only have great things to say about both of these two. Both are durable and handle great. Also, I have had about five Mammut Galaxy's 10.0, in the past 20 years and this is my favorite all around rope of all time (Trad, rope solo, big walls, ice, alpine, etc). Right now I am climbing on the PMI 9.7 arete, and it's ok but heavy and not quite up to the standard of these others above. I think I will buy another Infinity next time. No matter what, go for a bi-color rope, it's worth it. Alan-

I don't know how set you are on that number of UIAA falls... if you're willing to settle for 7 falls, the Petzl Nomad is a good option. I bought one in August as a new cragging rope and have been very happy with it. I've climbed on it about 40 actual days and my only complaint is the sheath tends to turn black, but to be honest I'm yet to find a rope that doesn't do that.

You might try the Beal Booster III 9.7mm. I have had two and find them to be long wearing and have a great hand. Just a thought...

Stu

I have a Edelweiss 10.5 70m and it is heavy when you are packing it around. On the other hand I am coming up on my second season of abuse on the cord and it is in great shape.

I own a Maxim Glider rope(several)and love them and would buy no other as I've owned many others. The sheath is fairly durable but handles like a dream. Get the bi-pattern it's worth it. I will never buy a non bi-pattern rope again as it helps so much in rope management.

I have been using the Edlyweiss Laser and really like it. The wear has been good, its a thin rope at 9.6mm, and its a bi-pattern.

Laser-
Diameter - 9,6 mm
Weight - 61 g/m
Elongation 5-80 kg - 7,5 %
Impact force - ~ 8,00 kN
Falls / Average of tests UIAA - 6

Here is a rope that looks like it would be a great fit for you.

On Site
Diameter - 9,9 mm
Weight - 64 g/m
Elongation 5-80 kg - 7 %
Impact force - ~ 8,40 kN
Falls / Average of tests UIAA - 8

and its a bi-pattern

Here Pidgee Pidgee Pidgee

+1 for the Edleweiss Laser 9.6. I have it in a 60m, but I love it

I second Stu's plug on the Beal Booster III. While only recently purchased About a month ago, I like its stretch i.e. - softer falls without much shenanigans such as jumping belays. Also, it has a nice feel and a slick protective coating whitch tells me it's built to last.

Better make that 3 and 4 for the Beal Booster. Myself and my best friend have both owned this rope, and love it. It handles well, the dry coat lasts for quite a good stretch, and oh yeah, nice, soft, catches. Downside is it is not a bi-color. I have been climbing on mine going on 3 years now (dirtbag climber I know) and have never doubted it. Granted it is going to be retired before too much longer, but a quality rope for sure.

I've had the Edelweiss Laser for about a year. It's advertised at 9.6, but feels more like 9.8. It's a great value and very durable. I've climbed (and fallen) on mine A LOT and it's in great shape.

I have the edelwiess onsite bipattern 70meter and love it! It's super durable and handles well.

Anybody have opinions on Sterling ropes? I can get 'em for a good price but I've never used one. Thanks!

Another one for Mammut Infinity. Sweet rope.

Tim F. wrote:Anybody have opinions on Sterling ropes? I can get 'em for a good price but I've never use one. Thanks!

Hated mine, don't remember the model though...I unpackaged it correctly, stretched it and it always twisted. Second on the edelweiss laser bi pattern, I have no complaints!

I just had a great experience with New England Ropes' customer service dept. Fast, courteous and very fair! They stand behind their products.

JacobD wrote:I have the edelwiess onsite bipattern 70meter and love it! It's super durable and handles well.

My first onsight (a 60m) was a great rope and handled well for 2 seasons. My second onsight (a 70m) barely lasted a season of very infrequent use. In fact, just for reference, I had to retire the rope before the plastic end caps fell off. My last rap on that rope had a major amount of sheath slippage. The last 15 feet of the rope looked like a hair scrunchy.

On to Mammut. Hopefully you get what you pay for.

http://www.mammut.ch/en/productDetail/1011170_v_3221_70_10_6/Galaxy+10+mm.html?cid=186331

This is my choice. I also own a 60m Infinity and have loved that rope. I think I would go for the larger diameter for durability.