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Best climbing shoe for Devils Lake? And why?

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,256

Nick, I wouldn't presume to think I'm smarter than you, or anybody else for that matter. I'm just saying that there's a reason you aren't allowed to rent a car until you are 25 years old. The brain goes through changes as you get older that makes you less willing to take risks. I'd like to think that my lack of boldness lately is simply a biological function rather than me just becoming a sally.

As for DD: confirmed. I used Evolv Talons, my shoe of choice for hard routes.

Rob Riggleman · · Santa Barbara, CA · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 960
Chris treggE wrote:Back on topic, I guess I am glad to find out it's not me that sucks, it's that I don't have the right shoe. Worn out Mythos with very rounded edges are not cutting it... Good thread Remo.

I don't know, I distinctly remember the first time I TRed an 11 at the lake, it was in a pair of blown out Mythos. My toe was barely sticking out of the end of my shoe to find that hidden foot under the bulge at the crux of Beginner's Demise.

On second thought, perhaps this is why I can't for the life of me break into the 12s..

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,256
Chris treggE wrote: Oh yeah, I was kidding, I know it's me that sucks!

But it's so much easier to blame it on the shoes.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610

Ok, so I am smarter than you?

My wife wants a baby so bad right now, is it only a matter of time before I too succumb to a fully formed amygdala?

I was fairly satisfied with Evolve Pontas Lace-ups yesterday but I think I got them too big. Fuck.

Socks or no socks?!?!?!?!!?

Hank Caylor · · Livin' in the Junk! · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 643

Time to press the red button. Only Jay Knower can help this.

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,256
Nick Rhoads wrote:Ok, so I am smarter than you?

I hereby challenge you to an academic decathlon.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610

Jay, name your topics!
I suggest:
"You are 20 ft above your last piece and it's a brassy with a screamer on it, you are 40 ft from the ground."
Do you:
A: Send.
B: Take.
C: Downclimb.
D: Jump.
E: Make your belay jump if you fall.

Chris, don't worry, I haven't gotten "action" for a while, been climbing.

SteveS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,420

I'm still swearing by the testarossas. everyone has a different foot and climbs with different footwork. That's the one thing that I've learned. I am curious about the Feroce's though.

And enough of the baby talk guys....

SteveS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,420

Yeah, the feroce is at boulders. And the testarossa is pretty average fit, in my eyes. If anything it may be a bit narrow in the toe box but the laces come down far enough that you can adjust it pretty easily. I like em a lot.

John W. Knoernschild · · Wisconsin · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 2,200

Nick,

Socks in the winter, no socks spring, fall and summer.

And I agree with steve, enough baby talk. You're scaring the rest of us.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610

When my kids grow up to be incredible bad asses they are going to hunt you down like a dog and make you wear Bufo shoes two sizes too big up Acid Rock, on lead.

John W. Knoernschild · · Wisconsin · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 2,200

I'll be waiting!

al grahn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 0

Wow, amazing how a simple question about shoes can generate all this. I haven't bought a new pair of shoes for a few years, but I'll put a vote in for Five Ten Newtons. I'd agree with Pete that the Mythos have been a popular shoe for a long time (for most everybody except Dave Groth).

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610

They will beat you to death with your own shoes!

John W. Knoernschild · · Wisconsin · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 2,200

Which ones, the Bufos that they made me wear while I pwned Acid Rock, or the new Talons I just got to pwn your face!

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610

Sorry, you are probably too young to notice that movie reference.

mattso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 60

The one and only pink high top kaukalators. duh!!

John W. Knoernschild · · Wisconsin · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 2,200

Too young??? I'm almost 27. You can't be more than 30 Rhoads. What movie, I have a poor memory.

Austin Pethan · · Madison, WI · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 50

So this is obvioulsy an old thread, and I had the same question as Remo but found this in a search.

Since shoes have obviously changed in the last 4 years, what are you all climbing in now on the DL routes? Xmas is coming soon...

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,706

Anasazi Blanco/Verde/VCS for routes. Dragons for bouldering.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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