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Climber injured/decks in Eldorado Canyon this morning

Russell Holcomb · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 15

Let's have a harmonious convergence of positive energy for this person. and for all the other injured climbers this year, and of course for Preston. It does seem like a lot of accidents so far, but it seems like we say that about every other year. Werk Supp has not changed. It's on my standard afternoon circuit and I do it about twice a week. I agree that a major issue is that it has been murder hot lately. No rain. The rock is particularly greasy in eldo right now. I also think that since Werk Supp is so accessible and takes such good gear that people repeat it a lot, like me. After a while you get it dicked, then you start to run it out between pieces until you finally find yourself climbing into ground fall territory all along the route . I do this all the time on various routes that I have dialed, and it's not a good practice. Sometimes I'll scare myself a bit and say I'm going to be more conservative, and I am for a while.
Obviously that wasn't the issue in this latest event since the climber was soloing, but I think that it is a particular hazard on a route like Werk Supp.
Let's hope that this spate of accidents is over.

Cheryl Claman-Brennan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 0

I am in shock that another climber was injured on the same route. All I can say is my heart goes out to the climber, his family and friends. This website has been so helpful to me as Preston's wife of 18 years, I hope that it will comfort the man and his family who fell today.

Gary Stokoe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 0

Hey,
I have a bit of information about the guy on Werk Supp today and giving it to you from CA. I am an old climber from my Boulder days in the 80's and used to live in the canyon. The guys is the brother of a close friend of mine. I shared this post with Randy but will leave it to him to give more in terms of family names and such.

Leave it to say that Mike is a veteran of the sport for more than 30 years. He's a strong and committed climber with 1000's of vertical feet of climbing all over the country and many as a solo climber a year. The fall was profoundly unfortunate and when I spoke to Randy earlier this evening, Mike was in ICU in Denver following surgery. His family were actually meeting for a reunion this weekend and were on their way to CO.

At this time Mike and his family could use our prayers, to give everyone the strength to get through this this tenuous time. I know that if anyone has any specific information from todays fall that the family would appreciate anything that might help them understand. I will continue to check in here and forward what surfaces to Randy.

Again, thanks for the kindness and concerns, it's appreciated.

Gary Stokoe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 0

Ok here's the most recent update having just heard from Randy about his brother MIke:

I just talked to Mikes nurse and it is not good. I asked her point blank and she said that if it were her brother she'd be on a plane. So I'm going to be on a plane. He has chest tubes in both sides, is on a respirator, was unresponsive even before sedation, his blood pressure is too low, he had multiple open, compound fractures of both legs, compound fractures of the left arm, multiple major facial fractures, a broken pelvis and several broken ribs. He's so unstable that they couldn't even completely clean or dress his wounds without killing him so she said infection will be a big issue. Rhonda takes care of him 12 hours straight and no one else. She said things are not going in a good direction but she will do her best.

Keep our prayers strong

P LaDouche · · CO · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 15
Ken Cangi wrote: . Werks Up is dead easy 5.8. I used to solo that route five or six times a week, and falling off never entered my mind. Either something happened to the route, or someone overestimated his ropeless climbing ability.

Dude....

Steve Williams · · The state of confusion · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

I hope he's going to be okay.
Many positive thoughts for him and his family and friends.

Heath Urie · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 0

Hello everyone, sorry to be that intrusive reporter type, but we're working on a story today about the man who fell yesterday. Anyone who was there, assisted in the rescue or knows him through family or friends would help shed a good light on the issue. Anyone interested, climbers or not, can contact me today (7-23) until 3 p.m. at 303-473-1328. We're also looking for pictures of the man, and those can be sent by e-mail to Urieh@dailycamera.com.

Thanks so much. We are trying to be sensitive to the community as we deal with our coverage of the incident. If anyone has concerns about our stories, let me know directly anytime.

Callie Rennison · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 15

Gary - thanks for the update. We've been thinking of Mike since we heard of the accident. We're pulling for him and his family.

Danielle Prall · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 0

Many prayers, blessings, and healing to this climber, his family and friends through this. Holding all of you in the light.

David Secunda · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 0

I'm deeply saddened. I was climbing with my wife, Carmela, across the way on Calypso. Just went out for a beautiful day in Eldo. I heard a woman scream and looked across the canyon to see him impact. I've worked search and rescue for over 10 years as well as on an ambulance and this scene has shaken me more than anything I've ever seen. It is profound how thin the line can be between life, at it's finest, and death.

The response to the fall was as it should be. He landed on the road so there was no evac. Once the ambulance arrived, they scooped and ran him to the hele evac.

After the fall, it seemed that the universe paused. First there were runs for help, then all were silent. I felt helpless. All were focused on Mike, but inside I think we all were torn up... questioning why, considering our sport, contemplating our good fortune, thinking of those we love, and extending our hopes, prayers and energy to Mike.

I'm holding Mike, his family, his circle of friends, and those of us that were thee in the light. This will stay with me a lifetime.

killclimbz Apostolou · · Ridgway, CO · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 5

Too many of these this year. One is too many. +++ vibes are sent.

Callie Rennison · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 15

http://www.dailycamera.com/news/2008/jul/23/fallen-climber-identified-oklahoma-man/

The man has been identified. Thoughts continue to be with him, his family and friends.

Done · · Oklahoma · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 0

I know Mike and just happened upon this information minutes ago. Mike has been a role model and motivator for me for many years now. As Gary said earlier Mike is a strong and committed veteran of climbing. If there is one thing Mike has going for him right now it is his mental strength. I am stunned to hear that Mike fell on Werks Up from around the same spot as Preston Brennan. Sounds like there's some bad mojo going on. Please continue to send Mike your support and prayers. Anyone with current information on Mikes condition please keep us updated.

Tony Mayse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 17

I just got the news about my buddy Mike. Mike is my main climbing partner here in Oklahoma. I'm trying to get in touch with his brother Randy. If anyone out there has his cell number or can let him know that Tony from Oklahoma is trying to get in touch with him. Many thanks.

I'm pulling hard for you Mike, don't give up on me man!

Tony Mayse

Peter Franzen · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,730

Just to be clear-- was he soloing the route?

Callie Rennison · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 15

It is my understanding from the newspaper articles that he was soloing the route. (Of course, that reporting may be incorrect).

Joe Vitti · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 247

I was guiding in Eldorado Canyon yesterday. At about 11:00 my client and I were near the top of Rewritten and noticed a climber soloing at the top of Icarus. I took a couple of pictures as he moved out onto and then up the arete above Yellow Spur. It looked really cool, the contrast of the dark rock buttress and the climber against the blue sky background way up high. I felt the mix of fear and exhilaration that I always do when I watch another climber soloing, same as I've felt soloing routes myself.

On our way to the car we watched as the injured climber at the base of WU was loaded into the ambulance. I spoke to a woman who was one of the first people on the scene and she said that her husband was a doctor and began first aid immediately. She said it was really awful.

It is strange how quickly the day can change when we play out in the heights.

I hope very much that Mike recovers, that there are more adventures for him.

Best wishes to friends and family.

Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 10,316

I was toproping Rain when my partner heard the screams -- she immediately lowered me and we ran around the corner and found that there were already 5 or 6 climbers gathered around the guy. There was little the climbers, or the doctor even, could do other than to hold his head still and yell at him to keep breathing. The injuries were very bad and very obvious. I'm guessing it was 30 minutes until he was loaded into the ambulance -- he was struggling to breathe every second of that time.

Everyone who responded remained calm and brave, despite, I'm sure, feeling helpless.

About an hour earlier this guy soloed the West Arete while my partner was leading Hair City. On the big ledge he crossed over above my partner and then headed up the chimney above West Buttress to the top of the Bastille. He seemed shaky in that 5.7 chimney and I remember being pretty uncomfortable (and pretty pissed off) thinking about him falling and possibly hitting or severely hurting my partner.

I feel very lucky to have learned my lesson soloing and to have escaped with my life. It was almost surreal to watch something like this only 2 years later and a couple hundred yards away from where I fell. Perhaps I'm being narrow minded or perhaps I've earned my right to say this because of my own experiences, but soloing is absolute foolishness.

My heart goes out to the injured climber -- I hope he pulls through. I'm praying for him and wish him the absolute best.

J. Thompson · · denver, co · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,410

Nothing but the best wish's for Mike and his Family. Miracles happen and I'm hoping one comes your way.

Also I shouldn't have to point this out but it appears as though I must. There is NO room on this thread for negative vibes or personal opinion other than those wishing well.

If you've posted something like this, and several of you have, please remove it.

josh

Steve Williams · · The state of confusion · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

I hope he's doing okay.

My best wishes for his family and friends.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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