Need some help planning a trip.

Hey guys. Im comming out from Jersey and will be rafting the Grand Canyon from January 26 - February 20. I think Im going to extend my stay, my girlfriend is all about flying out, and getting in some climbing. Looking for some moderate stuff between Flagstaff and Phoenix. Back east, gunks Adirondacks, Im leading easy 5.7's on trad. Looking for stuff in that range and maybe even some sport stuff- up to 5.10a. We're only going to have a day or two, so Im looking to keep the approaches short to maximize climbing, would need some sort of camping nearby also. Would love to hear some ideas on areas, any good guidebook for that area also would be great.. Thanks!!

Just returned from climbing through out Arizona for the Thanksgiving break. I would recommend Oak Creek Canyon. It is only a few miles south of Flagstaff on 89A. Scenic drive down through Sedona back or just hop back on 17. It has lots of moderate trad routes on solid Basalt. The climbs are south facing and open to the sun. We did a tour de Arizona and this was my favorite area (for climbing, the tourist dodging at the top is what it is, but the climbs are quietly tucked beneath.) Another idea is the Superstitions Wilderness outside Phoenix. Many of the climbs we did there were runout (In the case of Razors Edge on the Hand on 1/2in bolts and such.) but its a beautiful place even to hike around and there are certainly safer climbs. There is a bit of a hike to many of the climbs but there are some very aesthetic lines. There is a poorly maintained grouping of campgrounds on FS roads off 89a or some nice ones at the bottom of the canyon (closed when we were there)(Oak Creek Overlook) and a huge $12 per night place at the North Superstitions. There is a guidebook amazon.com/Weekend-Rock-Ari…
that would focus in on what you are looking for or the normal falcon guides and what not. We found the weekend rock book useful, but it will leave you with an incomplete picture of some places. There are enough books on climbing in AZ to more than fill your needs. Cheers,
Carl

The Falcon Rock Climbing Arizona is pretty good and only $25 as far as i remember. The superstitions have bark canyon wall which is apparently (Jim Waugh)the best place to climb out there. Ive done the Glory Road 5.7 and the long lead 5.8 and wasnt overly impressed, I also thought they were quite hard for that grade . The area is gorgeous though and the view from the summit is top class.
I think most people would recommend the McDowells and pinnacle peak for trad around phoenix and Id be interested if some climbers who have done a fair amount of climbing there could pitch in and help with the discussion..

Between Flag and Phx, easy trad and no more than 10 sport with camping nearby. I like the sedona idea but couldn't really recommend any 7s on sandstone; instead, head for the Oak Creek Overlook (trad) and your requirements will be met. Especially if you only have a day.

Sport stuff can be found further up the road at the Pit, some routes in your range do exist but be sure to get a guide first. The supes are a tad the wrong way so I wouldn't recommend going there.

There's a feature in Prescott, Arizona called Thumb Butte. It's got some great moderate routes on it:

Shark's Fin (5.7)
Monday morning hangover? (5.8)
Solar/Sun Slab (5.6)

If your feeling it, Mecca (5.9) is one of the best climbs of its grade that I've ever done. But I wouldn't call it a moderate, that's for sure.

It's all super-positive (Mecca is an exception; it's mostly hand-jamming) basalt climbing right over the town. Prescott itself is 20-30 min off of Interstate 17 (I think that might be the only intrastate in the country called an interstate, for you trivia buffs out there).

The problem is the damn raptors. I think that it's closed during the winter, but it might actually be the summer. It would be worth looking into it. "The Butte" is a great climbing destination for moderates in central AZ.

Enjoy your trip!

--Marc