The Black Canyon

Anyone want to climb in The Black Canyon? I've climbed a handful of routes there and can't wait to climb some more. It's the best multipitch crack climbing I've ever experienced. Don't be afraid of the reputation, I guarantee the walls will blow your mind!

I definitely want to check it out, just don't know if I am ready yet.

If you can lead 5.10 at Indian Creek, you're ready for The Black. The routes aren't necessarily hard, but it's real crack climbing and you've got to be fast if you want to do the long ones.

Hell, if you can belay and ascend I'll show you around...

yep deffinately need some work then, never been to the creek but I just did a 5.9 at turkey rocks that was pretty sustained and I felt pretty worked, then again it was awful width. I think I will work my way through RMNP first before I head to the black. Unless someone wants to take me, that would be a big trip for me though. Good luck, and have a blast, I can't wait till my partner and I are good enough to battle that big wall.

I would much rather just follow then ascend, I can pull moves upto v3 sometimes, but I don't feel comfortable leading 5.10 yet(although I lead a suposed 10 c on lookout mountain), I can pretty consistantly onsight 5.8 trad and probly 5.10 sport on lead.

Sorry Jason, it seems you're not quite ready for The Black after all. You've got to be solid and fast on 5.10 crack, even if you're following. Face climbing will not prepare you, at any grade. You've got to able to jam the different sizes, lieback, chimney, stem, grovel and place gear without thinking. These techniques are best leaned in Indian Creek; there's no better training ground for crack climbing anywhere. Meet me there in the fall...

James

THere are a lot of ways to get ready for the Black Canyon that don't involve driving out to the Creek. I have included a list below...by completing one or all of them, you are on your way to being prepared for a Black Canyon initiation.

To hone your route finding skills: You will inevitably drop your topo map at some point, so go climbing at Unaweep canyon, find a good obscure, overgrown 1 star route...take a good look at the topo at the base of the route then burn it. Bushwack/wander your way to the top then thrash your way back to your packs. For added challenge, prepare for the poison ivy by descending without touching any plants.

To condition your body to the general abuse: Spend all day running circles around your back yard in the blistering sun while someone alternates between smacking your hands with a ruler, scratching you with a tree branch, throwing handfuls of sand at you, and chasing you with a poison ivy frond...you only get a quart of water and a lousy tasting powerbar...use them wisely.

To improve your ability to climb on crappy rock: go to your buddy's home gym and loosen all the holds so they barely stay in position. Climb what you can by knocking on all the holds with your knuckles, avoiding 70% of the holds and never letting your feet cut. Everytime you fall or your feet cut, a bystander gets to smack you with a broom.

To prepare for falling rock: tie yourself to a light pole, then have one of your buddies huck rocks at you without warning.

To love climbing in the Black: Learn to love adventure, poison ivy, misery, self induced pain, being lost, bushwacking, climbing on dinner plates stuck to the wall with bubble gum, dirty cracks, while simultaneously developing an aversion to crowds, comfort, and any other climbing area.

That's what I'm talking about Cameron!
Sweet post.

Can't you just drink and smoke alot the night before and then jump on the Journey Home? With all the bolted stations and names of climbs carved in the rock at the first pitch and signs that point towards the climbs it would be hard to get lost. It is also worth paying the $1.50 to take the tram into the canyon. Don't forget to stop by the canyon bar and grill. It has nice riverside dinning. The escargo is splendid. Also make sure to put "Black Canyon Rescue Service" on your cells speed dial. They can be there before the golden hour expires and will have you safe on solid ground in no time. :)

O.K. I am bored. However the first pitch of Journey Home will keep you on your toes. Would like to do Senile Cruise someday.

James, what if I can place gear while drinking? Will I be ready then?

I'd have to say that Cameron nailed that one. I must add though that if you really want to be ready for grade V in the canyon then you must do everything he described in the dark after 14 hours of burl.

Also, I am sure that if you have fired Coyne Crack then you are ready for the 11+ cruxes on Astro Dog, Stoned Oven, Air Voyage, etc. NOT!

The only real preparation for the long routes in The Black is the short routes in The Black. Or perhaps maybe Zion or Yosemite.

I think this was a troll