Climbers in Evergreen...

Ryan Tuleja wrote: Hey Tom, talk to the boys down at Thrillseekers, as I know a few of them have been very active in developing this area for years now.

Hi Ryan,

Yeah, Scott Sills of Thrillseekers was the guy who I used to go up there with all the time.
I was referencing what, in my opinion, is the best (not hardest) problem up at Three Sisters. I was just wondering if anyone knows about that problem, as it is in a very obscure location.

Eric Bellamy wrote:... First of all thank you for your the comments on the left route at Maxwell Falls my partner and I established those lines this spring ['06]. The fouled bolt was my fault and I do intend on fixing it. My partner was injured in a construction accident a few weeks after we bolted it and we haven't made it back. ... Eric

Didn't know if you'd had a chance to take care of this or not. If not, cool, I'll patch it. (you can just pm me & let me know to bring some stuff over there -- it's not that big a deal)

Was thinking a good name for the lines are the "Cool Shades" routes because it's fun to get down in there when the summer sun is full-on and the slab stays nice & shady for some cool climbing.

Mark, are talking about Maxwell Falls or 3 Sisters? I kind of lost track of this thread's direction.

Who knows about the bouldering at Maxwell Falls? The stuff I saw there was near the creek crossing about a mile or so in. Looked good, but I was doing a family hike and didn't have anything with me. Problems seemed on the V-hard scale, at least to me with hiking boots and no chalk. I never did get around to the cliffs that day. But it kind of sounds to me like a crag that's best suited for top-roping. Is that the case? If so, would some anchor bolts be worthwhile?

Maxwell, yea mostly bouldering & TR'ing - there's already some anchor bolts on the main climbable cliff stuff, there's a few little trad lines, but not worth humping a full rack. Otherwise, there are trees everywhere for an anchor.

It's an area that just needs to be explored a little then you'll kinda figure out what works for you. Probably bring some long webbing & static line(s) & a couple of crash pads. It's a place to just fart around some blocky stuff (though the rock is good -- the Sickle crack is cool as hell - I say 5.8). In general, Maxwell is really not like the vertical N Table or the Wood.

Hmmm, might not be bad for the 7 year old or better yet my acrophobic teenager.....

Mark, you ought to consider hooking up with me and Tom this Spring at the Wood sometime when you don't have a real weekend.

Does anyone know of routes off of Squaw Pass Road? The cliffs I'm thinking of are off to the south side of the road once you get near the camping/picnic areas (almost to Echo Lk). They aren't visible from the road until you hike off the south side of the road into the upper region of Upper Bear Creek valley's north side. Some of them look beautiful but I haven't had the chance to explore upclose. They could also be accessed through the State Wildlife area that is closed most of the year, but it would be a really long hike from that direction. Or how about the cliff bands that are high up behind Bergen Peak and in that State Wildlife area (that I don't believe has the long closure)?

Cin - I think Juniper Pass &/or Eagles Aerie pull-offs (one of those has some cliff bands)?? Haven't explored there, though looks like a place ripe with touristas to toss pebbles on yer noggin.

Mike I'll have to pm you later on, Tom sent me a group e-note (thanks) but I guess he's going anti-tech for my reply -- I'm pretty busy this spring to summer, but would like very much to shoot to the Wood on the weeknight(s) when we get some longer days.

I need mileage, my lead head is still in ice tools; I can't figure on how I'm supposed to actually grab the rock, & why couldn't they have called it something else besides climbing? And who else came up with the great idea of always putting the crux at the hard part? Man, it's always at the hard part, too.

Mark - Those are two of the pull-offs, thanks for the names, think there are one or two more up there as well. These bands are a bit further than most of the pickinickers are going to hike, after parking there they're probably 20min to an hour. They're most easily seen from the road west of the pullouts 1-2 miles on the flat section just before dropping down to Echo Lake. Some are quite lovely.

Anyway, thanks for the quick response. Just putting some feelers out there for what, if any, exploration has actually been done up that way.

Would love to hear from anyone else who may have ventured out there or up behind Bergen Peak.

Say, don't want to place this thread in reverse, but when did Ocelot become off-limits to climbers. . . and for what reasons exactly?
It has been a few years since I climbed there last, but my buddy (local in area) and I were talking about hitting it up one of these weekends. . . . What gives?

I am not sure about ocelot but I woulden't climb there. Only in the least sketchy of times would I try it, I managed to pull it off once near dark (turned into an epic when my ropes became stuck and I had to rap and free them then ascend the line all in the dark) but haven't had the balls to try again. The problem is the proximity of 73, and as mark has noted the residents. If you are really interested in opening the area up voice your concern to the access fund as they are working with DMP to open up roughly 3 areas. There are also some other areas in evergreen closed by dmp that the access fund is working on.

On another note, who is hitting up 3 sisters (bouldering)? I have been going there lately with some friends and have seen alot of new fun stuff. mostly east of the first lot, enough problems I don't think I could complete the whole loop of problems I know of now. I finaly found the area with top rope bolts, after my brother topped it out thinking it was a bouldering problem. I saw some other people there on sunday and a friend of mine has seen other people too. 2-3+ pads are nice fyi.

On yet another note, does anyone know about the bouldering on stagecoach? I finaly got out of the car and looked at the boulders I have been seeing right off the road near a certain turn (in the 25 mph zone). There was chalk and about 5 nice roadside boulders with some fun looking lines. I will have to see what's up one of these days, although parking is sparce.

We should have a meet and greet sometime in the evergreen vicinity.

Also cindy I know about pretty much all climbing in the squaw pass area (there is a fair amount). The cliffs you seem to be talking about would be juniper pass indeed, also accessible from one pull off west. Lots of bolted routes, I would think in the 10-20 range of routes ranging from crappy rock to decent gneise(probly spelled wrong). I have tried to TR one of the routes and it seemed pretty hard, not much for beginners or even intermediate climbers it seemed to me (some mixed routes too with vintage gear and rap stations). I have gone rapelling up there a couple times though and it's a nice area. hike is like 10-30 min maximum.

The other areas south of 103 are on witter gulch. Adventure climbing at it's best, the most prominent features have routes. Good luck finding any info though. there is probly 30 routes or maybe more on witter, mostly bolted but some trad. If you can figure it out have fun and don't get caught or alert DMP of the location because they will post signs and chop top anchor bolts. Also Beware of cats they are common in the area(don't travel alone). contact me if interested in more info or a guided trip.

You know, this thread is just SCREAMING out for the need of an Evergreen area bouldering/climbing guide. One of you locals ought to pick up the entrepreneurial gauntlet presented here.

Yo Jason, Tom Hanson occasionally e-mails out invites for get-together days at the Wood. Maybe you should consider trying it out too.

sounds good mike, if all legalitys get worked out I would love to persue the endeavor. I have a 10 mp DSLR and know of alot of stuff so a guide could totally be possible with some help. Also I think I might have to try what tom is doing, although feel free to just drop me a line if you might like to meet up. we can exchange #'s and meet up sometime, I get some weekdays off randomly but mostly weekends and lately the after work 3 sisters burn a couple days a week.

Oh also TheREAL angry, I found a sweet OW overhanging cave crack reminiscent of veda that seems hard as hell (@ 3 sisters), I have a pic if your interested.

Jason,

I might be interested in a sweet OW overhanging cave crack at 3 Sisters, where is it?

Lee

it is back behind the 20-25 ft wall with tr bolts I have loaded a pic in my profile

I would love to host a meet and greet at my place here in Evergreen. If people are interested we could head over to 3 sisters and do some bouldering and then come back to my place and grill out have a couple beers and share beta. I live about 5 minutes from 3 sisters so that would be fairly conveniant for folks. This saturday, 4/7, would work for me. If you are interested shoot me an email via MP or give me a call at 505-699-1326. If this seems like too short notice I am open to another date.
Jason-I would definitely be down for compiling some info for a local guide. I usually take pretty detailed notes when I get back from a climb so it sounds like a fun idea.

Kirk

Mike, The problem with a guide is a lot of the climbing in Evergreen is in Denver Mountain Parks and therefore is off limits due to their strict no climbing policy.

Kirt, wish I could join you but have a newborn at home. Sounds like we are neighbors as I live in Arapahoe Park Estates just up Buffalo Park Rd from 3 sisters. Maybe later this summer I could have a party at my place.

The real master of Evergreen bouldering is Rufus, he knows all the secret spots. As for the crag by Bergen Peak off of Stagecoach it seems to be on public land, but you would have to trespass to approach from Stagecoach.

Mark Nelson wrote: Didn't know if you'd had a chance to take care of this or not. If not, cool, I'll patch it. (you can just pm me & let me know to bring some stuff over there -- it's not that big a deal) Was thinking a good name for the lines are the "Cool Shades" routes because it's fun to get down in there when the summer sun is full-on and the slab stays nice & shady for some cool climbing.

Mark,
Fixed it last fall, we haven't seen it this spring to see how the winter treated the patch.

Cheers,
EB

Jason, That sounds like the cliffs I've noticed. Thanks for the insight, certainly worth a look-see this summer. I'll take you up on the chance for more info then, it would be great to see what is close to home. I just moved here from Boulder recently. I've also wondered about Witter Gulch looks like there are a few cliffs back in there that are approachable via State Wildlife land. Do they have any anti-climbing policies like DMP?

Kirk, I can't make it this Sat but am open to a future meeting like that. Nice to meet some of the locals.

Ahh, just because DMP has outlawed climbing doesn't mean a guide would illegal. Its not like the Anarchist Cookbook or anything. Just post disclaimers. Sounds to me like you ought to consult Rufus, I've always believed in deferring to the elders with such things although its a free country and you can still do what you want. Just beware, Evergreen is very close to Denver and things may never be the same.

Still, the process of making a guide- especially the first one- has alot of synergetic value. New partnerships are formed. A general definition of your local ethics is established. Tom Hanson and I were part of 2 separate gangs at Castlewood, frankly kind of competing for lines. Then the Flatirons bolt ban emerged, followed soon by the Colorado State Parks. Upon advisement from our ranger, we had to get a guide out for the Wood before a bolting frenzy moved in (you have to have been around those days, 90% of Table's routes went in in 3 weeks). Tom had alot to compile for his guide, so he and I conferred and I got out an R&I guide. We've been friends ever since.