San Diego County Climbing Guide (1st edition)

Dave Kennedy and Chris Hubbard , Deadpoint Press, 1999

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• **this guidebook is out of print, but can still be found online***

San Diego County encompasses over 4,000 square miles of the southwest corner of the United States. Arid hills and valleys dominate the landscape, complemented by a few small but pleasant mountain ranges. Scattered around the county are many enjoyable climbing spots, ranging from the extensive to the obscure. Though a reputation as a home of toproping and bouldering was once well-deserved, quality lead routes including excellent multi-pitch climbs are available.

Most of the rock medium in the county is granitic in nature-indeed, a special type known scientifically as "Woodson Mountain granodiorite" composes many significant areas. An unusual kind of metamorphosed volcanic stone (which may in fact be a type of granite) is also found in areas like Mission Gorge. Most of this rock is about 100 million years old, part of an immense batholith of rock which underlies much of the region. What this oversimplification of geology means is that the rock in San Diego is generally solid, with erosion and ancient fracturing providing much of the climbable features.

The recent discovery and development of new areas and enhancement of existing ones has transformed the county into a rich and varied climbing environment. While it lacks a true destination spot for visiting climbers, taken as a whole, plenty of nice routes exist. This guide is intended to provide an overview of the entire county including many new routes as well as a review and update of previously established areas.

San Diego is a pleasant tourist- and military-oriented area, with a smattering of high-tech industries, and the suburban sprawl so common in Southern California has left its mark here with well over two million residents crowding the coastal hills and inland valleys. To the east, the sparsely populated backcountry contains thousands of acres of brushy, sometimes remote terrain-and a few jewels for climbers.

Mt. Woodson is the best-known area, and probably still the most visited, offering classic topropes, bouldering and a few leads on compact granodiorite. The nearby Poway Crags boast vertical sport climbs on interesting, ultra-fine granite. Popular Mission Gorge is conveniently close to urban San Diego, with older traditional climbs supplemented by new, interesting sport routes. The nearly adjacent Santee Boulders, with its easy approach and multitude of quality face problems receives much traffic. To the south, Otay has a collection of short lead routes on metamorphic rock. The East County has some of the best quality rock in Southern California, with fine areas like Corte Madera and Valley of the Moon hosting much new-route activity beginning in the mid-80s. Though Mt. Woodson is San Diego's best-known bouldering area, beautiful McCain Valley far exceeds it in sheer volume, with comparable quality, and the "new" Culp Valley may eventually yield some of the county's best pure bouldering. A few other smaller areas worth a visit include Lake Dixon, Lake Ramona, Descanso and Lawson Peak.

Climbing is possible year-round in San Diego, though summer heat renders many crags unpleasant. Some areas require long approaches which will deter many, but a jeep can alleviate the hiking in some cases for the tenderfoot. With a myriad of world-class facilities and diversions, San Diego has something to offer almost any climber.

Included:
- Lake Dixon
- Culp Valley
- North County Micro Crags
- Lake Ramona
- Mt. Woodson
- Poway Crags
- Urban Climbing
- Otay
- Mission Gorge
- Santee Boulders
- Descanso
- Stonewall Peak
- Lawson Peak
- Corte Madera Mountain
- McCain Valley
- Valley of the Moon