Utah Cave Rock Climbing

The approach took about 50 minutes for me, from the car to the start of the approach route into the cave. It may take shorter or longer depending on your comfort with crazy scree/talus fields.

First park at the Hole in the Rock pullout and walk down to the Utah Gully. Walk up past the Utah wall and up to the Upper Utah wall. From here you need to be extremely careful about crossing the fields of rock. Massive (300+ lbs) boulders will shift under you unexpectedly, and will start small rock slides. If you don't move carefully, you will send massive slides of rock down the gully, possibly to the road. BE VERY CAREFUL, this has been the most unstable kind of rock field I have found in Ogden, far worse than even Chouinard's Gully. From the Upper Utah Wall, turn left (east) and pass the large rib separating the gully into two. Once on the other side, keep moving up the gully, trying to find the least unstable portions of rock. My best luck was traversing the gully and staying near trees and walls in order to avoid the loose stuff. At some point you will find a slab on your left and make some 4th and low 5th moves up to a solid ridge line. Follow this ridge line until you reach the small "cave" to the left of Utah Cave, and traverse back west directly below it. From here you land at the final small rock field below the cave, scramble up this and reach the approach route. Once again I cannot overstate how important it is to not knock down massive boulders or slides of rock. It is very easy to get hurt on this portion of the approach. The trail has been uploaded on MP for easier navigation, but may not be 100% accurate. If you have a partner make sure they are far enough away from you that the rock you knock down will not land on them. Be safe and have fun!