Flakey Face (RIP) Climbing

Flakey Face, now better known as Voltaire Ave, was once Henderson’s premier climbing destination. It had around 100-150 boulder problems, a handful of top ropes, and some very short leads spread out over a couple of acres on two low hills connected by a saddle. It was common for many folk to show up after work and boulder into the night. All but the hottest couple of months were good for climbing with plenty of shade or sun depending on where one went. Like all of the original Henderson Crags, Flakey Face was first discovered and developed by Jim “Frodo” Lybarger while exploring the unlimited amenities of the “Shifting Sands Motel”.

Flakey Face proper, the tallest cliff of the area, was the main demarkation point. Everyone parked right at the base of the crag, which was easily accessed by any vehicle. This was also a great place to camp and climb by firelight, which we did regularly.

Other points of interest were: The Paul + Jenny Boulder, named for the graffiti across the face. It only had a couple of problems in the hard .11 range but could be reduced to hard .10 with a running start dyno to reach “the good holds.” A great place to break into the harder grades and the skin. Also, The Toxic Crags with the T.S.O.L. Cave, a pit-like cave that went back about 12’ and tended to get filled with trash by other desert rats and nearby towners. Toxic Crags is named both after graffiti and the trashers.

Many thousands of hours have been spent climbing here by dozens of regulars that lived in Henderson and Boulder City at the time. It’s too bad we didn’t have the internet to organize protection of this wonderful resource from developers. Or the support of environmentalists (ironically brought in by all the development) that brought about the creation of Sloan Canyon National Conservation Area, of which Flakey Face most certainly would’ve become part.