Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

North Side

Oregon > Oregon Volcanoes > a. Mt Hood

Description

This section includes routes traditionally approached from the Tilly Jane Hut, starting with Cooper Spur (NE) to Sunshine (N facing snow slopes/ridges).

Getting There

Follow trails to and from the Tilly Jane Hut until on the lateral moraine on the East side of the Elliot Glacier. From here you either continue up the ridge for Cooper Spur, onto and up the glacier for the North Face and Elliot HW routes, or cross the glacier for Sunshine.

Routes from Left to Right

Mod. Snow
 33
Cooper Spur
Trad, Snow, Alpine
WI3-4 Steep Snow
 4
North Face Left Gully
Ice, Snow, Alpine
WI3+ Mod. Snow
 28
North Face Right Gully
Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
WI3 M3 Steep Snow
 4
Cathedral Ramp
Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
WI3 M4 Mod. Snow
 6
Ravine
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 2 pitches
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2-3 Steep Snow
 9
Eliot Glacier Headwall
Ice, Snow, Alpine 5 pitches
Mod. Snow
 17
Sunshine Route
Snow, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cooper Spur
 33
Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
North Face Left Gully
 4
WI3-4 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine
North Face Right Gully
 28
WI3+ Mod. Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
Cathedral Ramp
 4
WI3 M3 Steep Snow Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
Ravine
 6
WI3 M4 Mod. Snow Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 2 pitches
Eliot Glacier Headwall
 9
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2-3 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine 5 pitches
Sunshine Route
 17
Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nearing the summit with the entire route below
[Hide Photo] Nearing the summit with the entire route below