Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 1,833 ft 559 m
GPS: 35.33705, -85.45063
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 34,983 total · 627/month
Shared By: Clara Leonard on Mar 14, 2022 · Updates
Admins: Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

Description Suggest change

Woodcock Cove is near the small town of Dunlap in Sequatchie County, TN, approximately a one hour drive from Chattanooga and a two hour drive from Nashville and Knoxville. An impressive mile-long cliff offers continuous single-pitch sport and traditional climbs. The rock is on par with all of the classic crags of the Cumberland Plateau, while also offering a distinctly natural experience; the area is filled with wildlife habitats, forests, streams, and an impressive view of the Sequatchie Valley. Woodcock Cove features a freestanding sandstone pillar, along with massive dihedral walls, both of which are unique finds in the Southeastern climbing scene. Established routes range from 5.8 to 5.13, and there are extensive sections that offer excellent climbing at more moderate grades.

https://www.seclimbers.org/2021/04/30/woodcock-cove-blog/

https://www.seclimbers.org/project/woodcock-cove/

Getting There & Crag Beta Suggest change

Coordinates: 35°20'13.1"N 85°27'02.0"W

From Chattanooga: Follow US 127-N to Dunlap, TN. Turn left on Fredonia Road past the Sequatchie County Fairgrounds. Continue through twists and turns to the Fredonia Fire Hall, and turn left at that point onto Hobbstown Rd / John Henry Lewis Rd. Follow through the neighborhood until you see a marked parking lot to your right. This is the only place you should park. 

WORD OF WARNING: It is recommended you park in the top half of the parking lot if you have a 2-wheel drive vehicle. The bottom half of the parking lot is steep with loose gravel and is very difficult to make it out of without a 4-wheel drive vehicle.

  • This crag is open but is still under construction. We ask that you stay on established trails.
  • Do not park in undesignated areas. Carpool from the town of Dunlap
  • Do not leave behind permanent and semi-permanent webbing. Bolting with permission only - Contact the Southeastern Climbers Coalition for a permit.
  • Guiding, commercial operations, events, and group usage by permit only.

Donate to the SCC

Suggest change

If you like climbing here, consider donating to help the Southeastern Climber's Coalition pay off the loan that they used to purchase the land. DONATE HERE.

149 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Woodcock Cove Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Woodcock Cove

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 51
● Pruno
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 54
● Smooch the Kooch
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 24
● GILF
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 23
● Big Orange Baby
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 40
● Anonymouse
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 22
● Honky Red
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 21
● Insurrection
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 71
● Half Baked
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 42
● Small Batch
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 14
● Free Lord
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 17
● Red Baron
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 15
● AK-69
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 12
● Golden Grain
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 9
● White Lightning
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 11
● Train Wreck
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Pruno (o) The Distillery (A…
 51
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Smooch the Kooch (o) The Distillery (A…
 54
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
● GILF (k) Betty White Buttress
 24
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Big Orange Baby (f) Capitol Wall
 23
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
● Anonymouse (a) The Zoo
 40
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Honky Red (i) The Mercantile
 22
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Insurrection (f) Capitol Wall
 21
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Half Baked (g) The Dispensary
 71
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Small Batch (o) The Distillery (A…
 42
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Free Lord (s) The Red Baron Wall
 14
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Red Baron (s) The Red Baron Wall
 17
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● AK-69 (g) The Dispensary
 15
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Golden Grain (o) The Distillery (A…
 12
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● White Lightning (o) The Distillery (A…
 9
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
● Train Wreck (g) The Dispensary
 11
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Woodcock Cove »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading