Elevation: 1,430 ft
GPS: 34.728, -83.37 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 10,947 total · 799/month
Shared By: Pinche Gringo on Dec 2, 2020
Admins: saxfiend
Access Issue: WMA Details

Description

Trad is the standard here with most routes going all gear or mixed. However, there are a handful of harder sport routes. There are a little over 60 known routes. This area offers a fun alternative to the gorge on the same amazing rock but with a much different feel. It sees little traffic and involves a longer approach, but the climbing is fun and laid back. Turtle doesn't cater to beginner climbers like nearby Yonah or Curahee. However, it does offer fun moderates for experienced leaders and even a handful of moderately hard routes for those wanting to test themselves. More info to come.

Getting There

If parking at the top WMA trail head, a 4x4 with ground clearance may be necessary if they haven't worked on the road in a while.  As of now, it's passable without the need for a 4x4 but you don't want to come in here with a sedan or anything with low clearance. If parking at the Boat Ramp, a 4x4 is often needed depending on the shape of the road as well. There is only room for a handful of vehicles at the top WMA parking and the turn around involves some maneuvering. If parking below at the boat ramp, leave the big spots for the boaters and park to the side out of the way. This area sees far more bikers and hikers than hunters but when the season is in, there's a chance someone is hunting. Be respectful of the hunters if they are there. 

Follow the main road, Jane Hurt Yarn Dr, past the entrance to the state park. It will turn to dirt and turn to N Rock Mountain Rd. You will come to a section where the road turns left but there are two other roads cutting off right. The middle road is private and is marked as such. The one on the right has a sign that say WMA. It appears to be a private drive for the residence on the right but it is not. This takes you to the top parking. As you pass by the locals on the right drive slow and be respectful. If going to the boat ramp, you would not turn down this road but stay on the main dirt road a little ways longer until you come to a turn off on the right that takes you down to the lake. I believe there is a sign that says stone place trail. If you don't turn here, you'll end up on Camp Creek Rd. 

From the top WMA trail head, hike down the main road/trail soon coming to a split. Stay left at the split and continue on the main road/trail. Go a ways until you come to another road/trail that splits up and right off the main trail. Take it up about 200ft and it turns sharp to the right and goes up hill. Follow it up until you come to another road/trail that goes right. Keep straight and don't go right. Continue until the road/trail ends just past a thicket of pines (these don't really exist anymore) on your right. From here the trail goes to single track on your right and takes you to the barren ridge out and to your left if you're facing the lake. Continue along the ridge until the trail splits. Go right and down steep terrain to get to the bottom left of the cliff. Otherwise, continue straight following the ridge until you ultimately drop down and right to the top of the Upper Deck.  There are a couple pictures posted below that show where to turn off the trail.

If coming in from the boat ramp parking, follow the road/trail up for a good ways wrapping around the hillsides until you come to the road/trail that you're suppose to go up. Rather than be on your right, it will be on your left. Then, the directions are the same as above.

If coming via lake, just paddle up towards the power house and the cliff will be obvious on your right. There are multiple places to put in on the lake. The lake is restricted to 25HP and below outboards and no PWCs. 

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