Elevation: 5,864 ft
GPS: 31.709, -110.495 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 24,384 total · 724/month
Shared By: drewp on Jan 22, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

Description

The Biscuit, as it's locally known, is another limestone cliff in the Mustangs. As the name suggests, the Biscuit has a thin, flaky crust. Unfortunately, this is a more desirable quality in baked goods than in rock climbs. However, once cleaned, there is some fun climbing to be found, with lots of chert and even a couple tufas, and it’s a beautiful spot. The climbing tends to be technical in nature, as many routes follow vague corners or other stemming features where you can't just pull down. There is also a lot of slab climbing on chert crimps and edges, and a few pocket routes. The bottom half of the wall is lower angle, with steeper rock up high. This means first pitches tend to be lower angle, and harder climbing is more easy to find on second pitches.

We are always working on new routes, so there are a couple of red tags. Mostly this just means the route needs more cleaning or is not fully bolted, so please stay off in the meantime.

Season
Nov-Feb. The Farmhouse is a better crag when it's hot out.

SUNSHINE
Much of the wall sees shade until about 11-noon. After that, unless you are on the back side, things fry until about 4 pm. The main amphitheater in particular tends to be dead still and nuclear hot after 1 pm.

Access
The cliff is on BLM land. All of this is often grazed. Don’t mess with the cows. Close the gates. Don’t drive off road. Don’t start giant fires and shit everywhere. People also often shoot quail here. We’ve also run into the Huachuca Hiking Club, who are the only other people who ever go up here (and are very nice!).

Wildlife
-The cows get bored and will chew on things (including your car).  If they are near the camping spot, best not to leave a tent up or a bunch of stuff strewn about during the day. You can always camp outside the second gate.
-There are rattlesnakes.
-There are Africanized bees. If they’re bugging you it’s because you are sweaty or near something that’s dripping. Just because you’ve climbed a route before doesn’t mean there isn’t a bee hive hiding on it, particularly when it's cold out. If you haven’t been here in a while, proceed cautiously, or that sick, all-points-off dyno may put your arm into a beehive. This is especially true if you decide to bolt a new line. Saddlebag your rope and don't drop rocks the first time down a new line.
-Lastly, there is a giant colony of swifts in the main amphitheater beneath that dirty flake. Swifts eat bees. So don’t bolt near their nest or be rude. If you are around the main wall at sunset they put on quite a show.

Getting There

(~1 hour) From Tucson, take the 10E. Take the exit for highway 83 towards Sonoita/Patagonia. You'll go through a border checkpoint on this road. You'll be able to see the Biscuit far away on the left when entering Sonoita. Take a left in Sonoita on the main highway (near the Steak-Out, the only close place to grab a beer), and then after about 8.5 miles take a right turn onto Upper Elgin Rd. Take this road for ~2.5 miles to the gate on the left side of the road across from a windmill. Take the left dirt road, go through another gate, and then after about 200 yards a sharp right turn will take you uphill towards a nice flat spot to park/camp. The “trail” starts 30 yards EAST and uphill of parking through some tall grass, and is marked by two large rocks. The hike is ~20 minutes.

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Biscuit

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 7
Smash the patriarchy
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 10
Postcards to Pinetop
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Sombreros from Snowflake
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Paraglider paranoia
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Mauled by Jesus
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
The Biscuiteer
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Greatest 5.8 in the State
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
Quailin with Cheney
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Swifting
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Breakfast is a Feeling
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
It’s Not Me It’s You
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Hands-free waffles
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 6
Neology
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Glory Box
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
King of Snake
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Smash the patriarchy Great North
 7
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Postcards to Pinetop Wall of Northern Arizona
 10
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Sombreros from Snowflake Wall of Northern Arizona
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Paraglider paranoia Main Ampitheater
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Mauled by Jesus Peanut Butter Cabal Wall
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Biscuiteer Main Ampitheater
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Greatest 5.8 in the State Main Ampitheater
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Quailin with Cheney Main Ampitheater
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Swifting Main Ampitheater
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Breakfast is a Feeling Main Ampitheater
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
It’s Not Me It’s You Main Ampitheater
 3
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Hands-free waffles Main Ampitheater
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Neology Main Ampitheater
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Glory Box Main Ampitheater
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
King of Snake Main Ampitheater
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Biscuit »

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