The Biscuit Rock Climbing

The Biscuit, as it's locally known, is another limestone cliff in the Mustangs. As the name suggests, the Biscuit has a thin, flaky crust. Unfortunately, this is a more desirable quality in baked goods than in rock climbs. However, once cleaned, there is some fun climbing to be found, with lots of chert and even a couple tufas, and it’s a beautiful spot. The climbing tends to be technical in nature, as many routes follow vague corners or other stemming features where you can't just pull down. There is also a lot of slab climbing on chert crimps and edges, and a few pocket routes. The bottom half of the wall is lower angle, with steeper rock up high. This means first pitches tend to be lower angle, and harder climbing is more easy to find on second pitches.

We are always working on new routes, so there are a couple of red tags. Mostly this just means the route needs more cleaning or is not fully bolted, so please stay off in the meantime.

Season
Nov-Feb. The Farmhouse is a better crag when it's hot out.

SUNSHINE
Much of the wall sees shade until about 11-noon. After that, unless you are on the back side, things fry until about 4 pm. The main amphitheater in particular tends to be dead still and nuclear hot after 1 pm.

Access
The cliff is on BLM land. All of this is often grazed. Don’t mess with the cows. Close the gates. Don’t drive off road. Don’t start giant fires and shit everywhere. People also often shoot quail here. We’ve also run into the Huachuca Hiking Club, who are the only other people who ever go up here (and are very nice!).

Wildlife
-The cows get bored and will chew on things (including your car).  If they are near the camping spot, best not to leave a tent up or a bunch of stuff strewn about during the day. You can always camp outside the second gate.
-There are rattlesnakes.
-There are Africanized bees. If they’re bugging you it’s because you are sweaty or near something that’s dripping. Just because you’ve climbed a route before doesn’t mean there isn’t a bee hive hiding on it, particularly when it's cold out. If you haven’t been here in a while, proceed cautiously, or that sick, all-points-off dyno may put your arm into a beehive. This is especially true if you decide to bolt a new line. Saddlebag your rope and don't drop rocks the first time down a new line.
-Lastly, there is a giant colony of swifts in the main amphitheater beneath that dirty flake. Swifts eat bees. So don’t bolt near their nest or be rude. If you are around the main wall at sunset they put on quite a show.