Elevation: 5,864 ft
GPS: 31.709, -110.495 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 5,121 total · 855/month
Shared By: drewp on Jan 22, 2019
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland
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Description

The Biscuit, as it's locally known, is another limestone cliff in the Mustangs. As the name suggests, the Biscuit has a thin, flaky crust. Unfortunately, this is a more desirable quality in baked goods than in rock climbs. However, once cleaned, there is some fun climbing to be found, with lots of chert and even a couple tufas, and it’s a beautiful spot.

We are still working on some of these routes and some new ones, so there are a couple of red tags. Mostly this just means the route needs more cleaning or is dangerous, so please stay off in the meantime.

Season
Nov-Feb. The Farmhouse is a better crag when it's hot out.

Access
The cliff is on BLM land. All of this is often grazed. Don’t mess with the cows. Close the gates. Don’t drive off road. Don’t start giant fires and shit everywhere. People also often shoot quail here. We’ve also run into the Huachuca Hiking Club, who are the only other people who ever go up here (and are very nice!).

Wildlife
-There are rattlesnakes.
-There are Africanized bees. If they’re bugging you it’s because you are sweaty or near something that’s dripping. As of Winter 2018, all routes are hive free; however, the bees make new hives in the Fall, and they like those big holes. Just because you’ve climbed a route before doesn’t mean there isn’t a bee hive hiding on it. Early in the morning they won’t be moving yet and you won’t see them from the ground. So: if you haven’t been here in a while, proceed cautiously, or that sick, all-points-off dyno may put your arm into a beehive. This is especially true if you decide to bolt a new line. Saddlebag your rope and try not to drop rocks the first time down a new line or you could die. This has happened at another limestone cliff nearby.
-Lastly, there is a giant colony of swifts in the main amphitheater beneath that dirty flake. Swifts eat bees. So don’t bolt near their colony or be rude. They are probably the reason there aren’t more bees here.

Getting There

(~1 hour) From Tucson, take the 10W. Take the exit for highway 83 towards Sonoita/Patagonia. You will go through a border checkpoint on this road. You will be able to see the Biscuit far away on the left when entering Sonoita. Take a left in Sonoita on the main highway (near the Steak-Out, the only close place to grab a beer), and then after about 8.5 miles take a right turn onto Upper Elgin Rd. Take this road for ~2.5 miles to the gate (has a white sign on the gate) on the left side of the road across from a windmill (please close all the gates!). Take the left dirt road, go through another gate, and then after about 200 yards a sharp right turn will take you uphill towards a nice flat spot to park/camp. The “trail” starts 30 yards west and uphill of parking through some tall grass, and is marked by two large rocks. The hike is ~20 minutes (faster on the way down!), basically straight up the hill. The wash to the right towards the saddle looks nice but is actually heinously brushy. The trail is sort of cairned, but the cows sometimes destroy it and kick over the cairns (those jerks). The trail is steep, sometimes loose, and you would regret wearing open toed shoes.

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