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Elevation: 5,226 ft 1,593 m
GPS: 43.60584, -111.50998
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Orphaned User on Sep 4, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn

Description Suggest change

A quiet and extremely scenic sector, Arcane is the most unique wall in the South Fork Zone. An overhanging scoop that looks and climbs like limestone more than volcanic rock. Adorned with colorful blue, grey and black mineral streaks and a texture that screams limestone; the climbing is steep and powerful. So steep in fact that Arcane offers some of the steepest climbing in the area. 

Cryptic, powerful sequences build into red-line endurance battles. In isolation, sequences feel attainable. Linked together, and pushing for the send, the routes shapeshift and become a different beast. Power/endurance will be your friend at the Arcane.

The wall faces east and south, respectively. Expect morning sun and afternoon shade. Winter closure inforced by USFS Dec 15 - April 15.

Several routes are equipped with fixed draws but not fully equipped at this time - rack a few quickdraws on your harness as to not come up short.

Rock, Stick Clip, Epoxy, etc. as with any South Fork sector, the rock is highly fractured - holds break - without warning. With this in mind, the bolt spacing is very friendly. All routes require a stick clip to start, especially routes on the upper ledge where a mistake would put the climber and belayer in serious peril. Most routes have some amount of epoxy reinforcing key holds - again, not uncommon in the South Fork zone. Given the rocky nature at the base of the crag, rattlesnakes (it's literally called Rattlesnake Point on the map), and ticks (springtime) - the Arcane isn't kid or pet friendly. A helmet is always a good idea.

Getting There Suggest change

From Idaho Falls, drive 23 miles via Hwy 26 to Heise Hot Springs. Continue past Kelly Canyon ski resort. At the end of the pavement, set your odometer! You will drive 7.6 miles from this point.
Drive for a bit over one mile to reach the Y junction. Take the right fork. You will pass Table Rock Campground (on your left), eventually reaching the river. From here, turn left (upstream), and follow the river for around a mile and a half. On your right is a small campground. On your left, up the hill eighty meters is the obvious cave. This is the crag.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Arcane

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Naiad
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
Proboscis
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Esoteric
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Naiad Lower Ledge
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Proboscis Lower Ledge
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Esoteric Lower Ledge
 6
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Arcane »

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