Arcane Rock Climbing

Loose, gritty, and steep define the climbing at Arcane. Dean and Heather Lords and Jaren Watson equipped five finished routes, one that is bolted but needs anchors, and two projects needing bolts in July of 2013. Like Pointless and South Park, Arcane is a basalt crag that overlooks the scenic South Fork corridor of the Snake River.

But unlike those other crags, this one is not a safe place for children, pets, or new climbers. Due to the nature of the cliff's position, rock fall and exposure are a constant concern. Belayers should be vigilant, not only to their climbers, but to their surroundings, as well. A stick clip is strongly encouraged--perhaps even mandatory. The consequences for blowing the first clip on the Upper Ledge routes are severe.

A note about the rock: Dean and I employed numerous tubes of epoxy to make the routes as safe as possible. For climbers who want an all-natural experience, Arcane is not going to meet your expectations. Be aware, no holds were enhanced, chipped, or altered in any way. Epoxy was only used to reinforce existing blocks in an effort to reduce risk. In any event, climb at your own risk, as the annual freeze/thaw cycle is likely to render Arcane an ever-changing crag.

Despite some of the routes being short, the steepness of the wall necessitates the use of a 60 meter rope.