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Routes in Lower West Wall

Gates of Delirium S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ides of March T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stress Test S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sunny Side Arete, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Description

The first (lowest) wall visible on the right as one drives up the McLaughlin Canyon road from the valley. Although pretty short (40-50' tall) and mostly composed of sharp fragile rock it makes a fine winter crag with its easy access and afternoon sun (and interesting glacial polished boiler-plate slabs on top). Probably very snaky in the summer...

Getting There

Both of these approaches are on BLM (public) land the whole way.

Upper East Approach - park along the MC Rd on the right between the caves parking pull out and the Main Canyon climbing pull out (right after the creek passes under the road). Head west down the old road track along the south side of the creek until it is possible to follow a cow trail SW up the hill to the bench above the creek. Follow the bench SW till you reach an intermittent stream bed. When you come to the NW mouth of the Little West Canyon turn right and continue following the creek bed due west to the top of the crag. It's a 10 minute hike in and 15 minute hike out to/from the top of the crag. Access the base by heading south from the top of the rock. This is probably the best approach due to greater privacy and scenery.

Lower West Approach - park at the first pullout along the McLaughlin Canyon Rd. (about .4 miles up from the first cattle guard, just above the junked green pickup along the creek bed) and head down the slope to the creek bed to follow a cattle trail there towards the cliff (about 10 minutes total approach). This is the most obvious direct route but not the most dog friendly approach because of the abundant cacti on the slope between the road and creek.

4 Total Climbs

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