Carnuel Crag Rock Climbing

* Rattlesnakes are common in season—stay alert and give them plenty of space. 

This small cluster of large granite boulders offers decent climbing close to Albuquerque, with a relatively easy approach. It’s a great alternative to the gym. The wall faces east, making it especially pleasant on summer evenings and sunny winter mornings.

PRO TIPS for climbing at Carnuel Crag

• Stick to established climber trails to minimize impact on the vegetation.
• Bring long slings or cord to extend your anchors. The coarse granite can damage ropes, so keeping your rope running freely is essential.
• Carry an adjustable wrench. The coarse granite can crumble slightly behind protection bolts, and repeated lowering has been known to loosen nuts.
• A short static line can be helpful for safely accessing bolted top-rope anchors if scrambling to the top.
• The Upper Ledge Anchor Stations are a great spot for teaching and practicing climbing skills.

Accessing Anchors
All anchors can be reached by scrambling to the top of the formation. Some may require an access tether for safe positioning. The easiest way to reach the top is via a climber’s trail located about 25 feet uphill on the north end of the formation that heads up west onto the ridge. Once at the top, head back south toward the formation.

• Upper Ledge System: Clip into the bolted access anchor on the ledge for safe positioning while setting up top-rope anchors at the cliff edge. Reaching the anchors at the south end of the formation from this ledge requires some creativity and carries higher risk. 
• Upper Knob: A few fourth-class moves up the west face are required to access the tallest part of the formation.

Guidebook Reference
Refer to Climbers Guide to the Lower Sandia Mountains by Barry & Rita Loucks (1989), pages 29–30, for early route documentation. Many top-rope variations exist on the main lines.