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Routes in Carnuel Crag

Adam Bomb TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Avoidance TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chicken Delight TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dancing Diagonal TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dilly Dally T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Finish, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
For the Fun of It TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Chile Jam TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grovt Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gumby T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Irrigation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Knob Job TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lay Out TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mahogany Blues TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mahogany Rush T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meanderer TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. Finny TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Open Book T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Pop Goes the Climber TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squeeze Play TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tally Ho T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Elevation: 6,231 ft
GPS: 35.067, -106.468 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,687 total · 326/month
Shared By: Karl R. Kiser on Dec 13, 2017
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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This is a small crag, on good rock, close to the city with a short walk. It is a good substitute for the climbing gym. There are several anchors on the right side which can be set for TRs by walking around the back from the right. It has an eastern aspect and is good for summer evenings. Keep an eye for rattle snakes in season.

The upper right portion of the crag has two areas with several anchors each. Approach by going right and around to the left of the rock. The lower portion, containing several cracks, has a large ledge. Go around the upper knob, continue south, then east to the large flat ledge. The upper knob section requires a few fourth class moves straight up the west face to reach the top. There are also several anchors on the lower left section of the crag.

An early guide to the area is published in Climbers Guide to the Lower Sandia Mountains by Barry & Rita Loucks (1989) pages 29-30. There are many TR variations of the principle lines.

Getting There

The trailhead parking is on the north side of exit 170 on I-40 east. Coming from town, exit 170, take Route 66 over I-40, left as though you are heading back to onramp, park in large open median (be sure to park well away from any roads). Crag is north across on-ramp and up a large concrete sluice, thence freeform uphill to obvious cragginess.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Carnuel Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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The Loucks' guide (1989) is referenced in the writeup (including route names where appropriate). Stars and grades are more a matter of opinion. Dec 17, 2017
This place is sweet, thanks for posting it! Closest rope climbing to Albuquerque by far and not chossy like tunnel springs. Numerous TR climbs are actually mixed routes with lead bolts and gear placements. Feb 9, 2018

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