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Elevation: 3,913 ft 1,193 m
GPS: 36.23735, -115.37758
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: John Hegyes on Sep 22, 2017 · Updates
Admins: Luke EF, Justin Johnsen
Warning Access Issue: Possible Illegal Access/Trespassing Considerations DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A large canyon complex featuring several classic limestone walls, Box Canyon has a lot to offer the limestone sport climber, but it is plagued by chronic access issues thanks to the large quarry blocking its entrance. There are three walls that were put up back in the 1990's: Trench Town, Water World, and Fire Wall. The bottom of the canyon starts quite wide at the quarry and as you travel up-canyon the water course continues to narrow into a network of tall slot canyons of blue-grey limestone. A lot of the routes contained therein are described in the book Islands in the Sky (2000) by Dan McQuade, Randy Leavitt and Mick Ryan. While the canyon has a lot of privately owned land along the road in (Nevada Ready Mix), the crags are all located on BLM - Red Rock National Conservation Area land.

Getting There Suggest change

There are several access issues that make approaching the climbs in this canyon a lot more difficult than it should be. In the old days you could simply drive up the dirt road in to Box Canyon. Slowly over time the quarry has grown larger and houses (and a freeway) have been built closer to this area. Informal arrangements with the quarry allowed climbers to drive through on weekends but those days are no more and a large pit has been dug that now completely blocks off the direct road approach. There is a network of roads that bypass the quarry, coming in from the north side, but the driving is moderately technical.

 Head west on West Tropical Pkwy until the pavement turns into improved surface. Follow improved surface, and east/west running high power lines until the power lines intersect another set of power lines running north south. Turn south. Follow improved surface for a half mile or so, and fork to the slight right oblique, turning southwest. Continue past one moderate wash, and some gentle switch backs to a brown leather upside down couch. Park at the bottom of certain death hill, unless you have a 4wd then you can continue up certain death hill to the bottom of box Canyon. If no 4wd hike the road up certain death hill, or follow the use trail up the finger ridge. Hike about a mile and one half along the crushed limestone gravel road until it forks. Stay right,  and the trenchtown/ Waterworld Box Canyon will come into view. 

There are no cable ladders. There are simple Boulder climbs until the trenchtown Waterworld confluence. Waterworld needs no technical gear, Trenchtown requires one to climb up canyon left and locate one bolt with a quick link with which to rappel about 100' into Trenchtown level 1. Continue up canyon to access levels 2, and 3. Two short scramble climbs to access level 3, but the best walls are in level 3.

Fire wall is up canyon from Waterworld and does not require a rappel.

29 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Box Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
Ancient Seabed
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
The Dolphin
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
No More Trouble
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Give Thanks and Praise
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 16
Water Witch
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
Seas of Opression
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
Inland Sea
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
The Confluence
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 18
Flash Flood
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
One Foundation
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Stay Golden
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Aqua Net
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
H20
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Parallel Lines
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Shredder
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ancient Seabed Water World
 7
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Dolphin Water World
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
No More Trouble Trench Town > Level 3 > Left Wall
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Give Thanks and Praise Trench Town > Level 3 > Left Wall
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Water Witch Water World
 16
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Seas of Opression Water World
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Inland Sea Water World
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Confluence Water World
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Flash Flood Water World
 18
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
One Foundation Trench Town > Level 3 > Left Wall
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Stay Golden Water World
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Aqua Net Water World
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
H20 Water World
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Parallel Lines Trench Town > Level 2 > Right Wall
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Shredder Trench Town > Level 1 > Left Wall
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Box Canyon »

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