Elevation: 5,000 ft
GPS: 34.34, -117.98 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 20,440 total · 360/month
Shared By: Tristan Burnham on May 24, 2017 · Updates
Admins: jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

A little mini Joshua Tree right in the middle of the Angeles National Forest. Don't waste your time driving all the way out to Joshua Tree for big crowds, death heat, and pant shitting run outs, come here!

It has similar gritty rock type and features like flaring cracks and cool knobs. It's got everything: hand and finger cracks, flakes and underclings, slabs and traverses, a squirmy chimney and an aid route.

Its a perfect spot to crank out some mellow trad routes and get a bunch of quick laps in.

I found this crag a few years ago. There were no signs of climbing except for 1 old rusty Star Dryvin bolt on a blank chossy slab. Royal Robbins and other local badasses likely climbed some of the cracks, but I did have to clean up a few routes. Some rock is a little grainy and loose, but that will clean up with more people climbing it.

I added anchors to the top so it's easier to set up the routes.

To get to the top there's an easy 3rd class walk up on the right side of the crag. All routes can be TRed off the 2 sets of bolts, but there's 2 or 3 where you'll want a cam as a directional.

Getting There

Drive up Angeles crest highway and 1 mile after newcombs ranch turn left onto sulfer springs road and park at 3 points trail head. This is the same road for horse flats but you park right when you turn off the highway.

Walk down the PCT, cross the highway and stay on the PCT for about 2 minutes then turn right onto another trail. Follow the trail for about 5 minutes and then walk up a loose climber trail to the left when you see the crag.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Fictitioua Tree

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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