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Routes in Fictitioua Tree

Bolt Ladder aka AIDS T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a C1+
Calfsmoke T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coarse and Bulgy T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Face from Nowhere, The T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Huskies are Poodles too T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Single Dog Leg T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Smokin Bagley T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snowblade Tracks T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Squirmney T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Worth Bagley was a Bitch T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Description

A little mini J Tree right in the middle of Angeles National Forest. Don't waste your time driving all the way out to J Tree for big crowds, death heat, and pant shitting run outs, come here!

It has similar gritty rock type and features like flaring cracks and cool knobs. It's got everything: hand and finger cracks, flakes and underclings, slabs and traverses, a squirimy chimney and an aid route.

Its a perfect spot to crank out some mellow trad routes and get a bunch of quick laps in.

I found this crag a few years ago. There were no signs of climbing except for 1 old rusty star dryve in bolt on a blank chossy slab. Royal Robbins and other local badasses prolly climbed some of the cracks but I did have to clean up a few routes. Some rock is a little grainy and loose but that will clean up with more people climbing it.

I added anchors to the top so it's easier to set up the routes.

To get to the top theres an easy 3rd class walk up on the right side of the crag. All routes can be TRed off the 2 sets of bolts, but theres 2 or 3 where youd want a cam as a directional.

Getting There

Drive up Angeles crest highway and 1 mile after newcombs ranch turn left onto sulfer springs road and park at 3 points trail head. This is the same road for horse flats but you park right when you turn off the highway.

Walk down the PCT, cross the highway and stay on the PCT for about 2 minutes then turn right onto another trail. Follow the trail for about 5 minutes and then walk up a loose climber trail to the left when you see the crag.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Fictitioua Tree

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Calfsmoke
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Calfsmoke 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
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