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Routes in Family Wall

Five Nine D S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Plata o Plomo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
While You Were Sleeping S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Elevation: 7,566 ft
GPS: 37.774, -119.13 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,935 total · 52/month
Shared By: Mark Grundon on Oct 2, 2015 with updates from kenr
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Interesting quartzite rock.
70 foot wall. North East facing.

Top-Roping? Difficult to get access to the top of the wall other than by leading a route (and the easiest route is perhaps not such a friendly lead). And then the top area is fairly unfriendly: steeply-sloping smooth rock with few features to place Trad gear, and the one subtantial tree is far back from the edge and off to one side. So while looking at this wall from below suggests possibilities for developing several addtional interesting routes, likely it would first require substantial infrastructure development in the top area even to easily enjoy them on top-rope, let alone bolt them for sport leading.

Getting There

This crag is about 80 ft west above the well-maintained Gem Lake hiking / horsepack trail. Either start from near the Silver Lake resort and walk gentle south up the trail about half a mile (7-10 minutes). Or could climb one of the two- or three-pitch link-ups of easy/moderate climbing routes on the quartzite slab of sector Lewis + sector Secor + sector Moynier of the lower Silver Lake climbing area [… ]. Then from the mid-point of the ridge top of sector Moynier, step down a little, then walk first SouthWest slightly uphill to hit the Gem Lake Trail. Next walk 250 ft downhill NorthWest on the trail to where it crosses a loose rock gully (2 minutes).

Leave the Gem Lake hiking trail at GPS latitude longitude (N37.77426 W119.12968), and hike up along a gully of loose rock SouthWest about 70 ft, then turn right and go NorthWest 70 feet to reach bottom of the three bolted routes, with an alcove for shelter from sun and rain.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Family Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five Nine D
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Plata o Plomo
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Five Nine D
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Plata o Plomo
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
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We got here by first climbing the easiest 3-pitch link-up in the Silver Lake climbing area: Salamander in sector Lewis to Divine Martine to Voie Directe in sector Moynier to the summit dome, then straightforward to walked down the trail and then up to the Family wall.
After climbing two routes at Family Wall we walked easy north down the Gem Lake trail, then just after passing the northwest corner of the lake, took a little unmarked shortcut down to the main June Lake Loop road. From there one of us ran back south and got the car, while the others walked flat 400 ft north to the store for drinks + snacks.

I think now with the intense development of the north sectors of the new Silver Lake climbing area so close below the Family Wall, this crag has a new "critical mass" to invite climber visits.

I'll suggest that with the installation of some two-bolt anchorsand directional bolts above the top oif the wall, to make it easier to move around and set top-ropes to make it easy to explore other climbing lines, there would be even more reason to visit this wall (after some climbing at Silver Lake area). Aug 10, 2018

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