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Elevation: 683 ft
GPS: 37.5188, -89.02748
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 59,203 total · 535/month
Shared By: Dave Hug on Jan 29, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Aaron Mc, Dave Hug, Kevin Sierzega
Warning Access Issue: Land and Water Reserve DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Cedar Bluff is comprised of 30+ routes along a half mile cliff band. The 80-90 ft tall cliffs provide a great resource for anyone desiring to practice multi pitch and contains numerous multi-pitch routes. Thanks to the south facing cliffs, Cedar Bluff is a great destination on any sunny winter day. A steep bouldering cave with quality problems exists at the far climber's right end of the cliff line.

The Cedar Bluff climbing area is owned my the State of Illinois and managed cooperatively by the Illinois Department of Natural Resources and the Illinois Nature Preserves Commission ( dnr.illinois.gov/inpc.html). The climbing area is encumbered by a conservation easement, known as a Land and Water Reserve (LWR). Destruction of the natural resources on site are strictly prohibited by law. Guiding and groups of over 20 individuals require a permit application from both the IDNR and INPC. Restoration activities occur regularly on site including prescribed burns, tree thinning, and exotic species treatment. Please respect sudden closures during prescribed fire activities.

The Illinois Climbers Association (ICA) helps IDNR and INPC maintain the climbing resources at Cedar Bluff LWR. Special thanks to IDNR biologists Kevin Sierzega and Christina Feng for acquiring these permissions. As of fall 2022, re-bolting of existing climbing routes with stainless steel was ongoing.

Resources Suggest change

[[Illinois Climbers Association]] ilclimbers.org
Founded in 2002. The Illinois Climbers Association is a charitable organization representing the climbers of Illinois. We are dedicated to preserving climbing and bouldering access in Illinois through education, conservation, and cooperation.

Mission

The Illinois Climbers Association is a 501(c)3 charitable organization created to:

  1. Promote and support conservation and preservation of both rock climbing and bouldering areas, and their respective natural resources in Illinois
  2. Encourage optimal recreational use of Illinois outdoor climbing resources through land stewardship education and by facilitating cooperation between climbers, private land owners, and public land managers
  3. Encourage and promote the development of policies and practices that will preserve climbing and bouldering areas in Illinois

HELP THE ICA Conserve Climbing at CEDAR BLUFF! 
In 1991 the U.S. Forest Service transferred Cedar Bluff to the IDNR and threatened climbing access. Due to this, local climbers organized and formed the ICA to protect Illinois climbing. The ICA was successful and has continued to be instrumental in conserving access to the climbing all over Illinois. If you have any questions, comments or concerns feel free to contact them.

**PLEASE DONATE**
Click HERE to donate towards the Illinois Climber Association's cause.

Getting There

Suggest change
From the south, take Interstate 24 north or Interstate 57 north.

On Interstate 24, go to Tunnel Hill Road, west (left) to Rte. 37, left to Buncombe (a small town, easy to miss), turn right (west) at Main street, go about a block to Lick Creek Road; make a right onto Lick Creek Road and stay on it until you come to Cedar Grove Road on your right (a sharp right turn).

From the south on Interstate 57, go north to Lick Creek Road.

From the north, get to Interstate 57, go south to Lick Creek Road.

From Interstate 57, on Lick Creek Road, go east to Cedar Grove Road on your left (almost immediately after passing Draper's Bluff on your left).

Take Cedar Grove road to the church, park in the lot, to the right side (be nice, quiet, and polite) as far from the church as you can reasonably get; don't use the outhouse. Follow the trail to the cliff.

53 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cedar Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5 6C
 5
Pocket Thesaurus
Boulder
V5 6C
 13
Pinch Point
Boulder
V8 7B
 9
Compression Ratio
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 27
Mike's Meander
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 10
Cave City
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 22
Africa
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 23
Dizzy
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 20
Dos Equis
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Community Property
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Big Sting
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 20
Detention
Trad, Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
Ghosts and Goblins
Trad, Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 7
Unfinished Symphony
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
Schoolyard Blues
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Let's Play Doctor
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pocket Thesaurus E: Bouldering > Bouldering Cave
 5
V5 6C Boulder
Pinch Point E: Bouldering > Bouldering Cave
 13
V5 6C Boulder
Compression Ratio E: Bouldering > Bouldering Cave
 9
V8 7B Boulder
Mike's Meander A: Playground Wall -D…
 27
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Cave City A: Playground Wall -D…
 10
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Africa A: Playground Wall -D…
 22
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Dizzy A: Playground Wall -D…
 23
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 2 pitches
Dos Equis D: PG Wall -Coal Hous…
 20
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Community Property D: PG Wall -Coal Hous…
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Big Sting D: PG Wall -Coal Hous…
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Detention A: Playground Wall -D…
 20
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Ghosts and Goblins D: PG Wall -Coal Hous…
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Unfinished Symphony A: Playground Wall -D…
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Schoolyard Blues D: PG Wall -Coal Hous…
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Let's Play Doctor A: Playground Wall -D…
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Cedar Bluff »

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