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Areas in Cedar Bluff

A: Playground Wall -Detention Area 7 / 6 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Above Detention Wall 1 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
B: Little Big Wall 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
C: PG Wall -Coal House Area 10 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
D: Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11

Description

Thanks to the South/Southwest facing cliffs, Cedar Bluff is a great destination on any Sunny winter day. The Southern exposure creates a micro climate on the wall and temperatures average 10-20 degrees warmer on the wall.

Cedar Bluff is comprised of 30+ routes/problems along a half mile cliff band. The 80-90 ft tall cliffs provide a great resource for anyone desiring to practice multi pitch. The site contains 5 multi-pitch routes and over a dozen routes at or below 5.10 and you can set up a top rope on every one of them. The bouldering at Cedar Bluff ranges primarily from V0-V5, but there are harder lines and even unfinished projects on the site. If you come for bouldering, bring brushes to give the stone a little TLC.

Getting There

From the south, take Interstate 24 north or Interstate 57 north.

On Interstate 24, go to Tunnel Hill Road, west (left) to Rte. 37, left to Buncombe (a small town, easy to miss), turn right (west) at Main street, go about a block to Lick Creek Road; make a right onto Lick Creek Road and stay on it until you come to Cedar Grove Road on your right (a sharp right turn).

From the south on Interstate 57, go north to Lick Creek Road.

From the north, get to Interstate 57, go south to Lick Creek Road.

From Interstate 57, on Lick Creek Road, go east to Cedar Grove Road on your left (almost immediately after passing Draper's Bluff on your left).

Take Cedar Grove road to the church, park in the lot, to the right side (be nice, quiet, and polite) as far from the church as you can reasonably get; don't use the outhouse. Follow the trail to the cliff.

46 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cedar Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 16
Mike's Meander
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 7
Cave City
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 14
Dizzy
Sport 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 14
Africa
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Fear of Flying
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
Dos Equis
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Detention
Trad, Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Ghosts and Goblins
Trad, Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 6
Unfinished Symphony
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Schoolyard Blues
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Let's Play Doctor
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mike's Meander A: Playground Wall -D…
 16
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Cave City A: Playground Wall -D…
 7
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Dizzy A: Playground Wall -D…
 14
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Africa A: Playground Wall -D…
 14
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Fear of Flying A: Playground Wall -D…
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Dos Equis C: PG Wall -Coal Hous…
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Detention A: Playground Wall -D…
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Ghosts and Goblins C: PG Wall -Coal Hous…
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Unfinished Symphony A: Playground Wall -D…
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Schoolyard Blues C: PG Wall -Coal Hous…
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Let's Play Doctor A: Playground Wall -D…
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Cedar Bluff »

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