Mountain Project Logo
Climbing Area Map
This is our best guess at this area's location. Know it? Let us know.

Routes in Shuksan Crag

Beginner's Route TR M4
Excavation, AKA The Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M5+
Katie's Corner TR M5
Last Chance for Gas, AKA Tricky Start S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c M6+
Pumporama S,TR M7
GPS: 48.924, -121.685 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
This is our best guess at this area's location. Know it?
Page Views: 1,789 total · 44/month
Shared By: Jason D. Martin on Dec 29, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick
Getting weather forecast...

Description

This is a somewhat forgotten rock climbing area that was rediscovered by mixed climbers. The routes are right next to the road!

There are currently plans to rebolt the routes. The bolts on the lines right now are old and rusty and until recently were often covered by moss. Until the bolts are replaced climbers should avoid leading these routes.

A short static rope is useful to help set-up some of the mixed lines.

Getting There

Take Highway 542 from Bellingham to Glacier. Drive another 13.3 miles and turn left on the unpaved Hannegan Pass Road just before crossing the Nooksack River near Milepost 46. If you drive over the river and past the campground, you've gone too far.

Once on the Hannegan Pass Road, drive for two minutes to the crag on the left.

5 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Shuksan Crag Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Nickley  
This crag was "redeveloped" for mixed climbing. The "redeveloper" did not receive permission from the first ascensionist to publish a mini guide. We have been having problems with people prying off the holds of established sport climbs. This is not a drytooling crag despite what aai guides have to say. Feb 24, 2015
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
If its on public land, permission is not required by any means to put routes on MP, or in a guide. It's a nice gesture, but that's all. Feb 24, 2015
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Thanks Nickley.

Maybe you can post these sport climbs here, and let us all know about the history of the routes and who first put them up.

If I had put up a sport route, cleaned it, and bolted it, then I might not be pleased to have people swinging their metal tools at it. But I have no knowledge of this area or who the FA persons are. Feb 25, 2015
Nickley  
The topo for these climbs can be found in the guide book called "A Rock climbers Guide to Bellingham Rock!" On page 19 and 20. The left side route is called, appropriately, Excavation 5.7 (natural pro/60 ft) f.f.a. Chad stebbins, Scott Carr, Brandon Sirguy (1995).
The middle route is called "Last Chance for Gas"** 5.11a (6 Bolts/ 50 FT) f.a. Chad stebbins and Brandon sirguy. F.f.a. Brandon sirguy and Jason henrie (1995).
The hard route on the right has been a long standing project that has only recently been red pointed by Quinn Baumgartner of the chuckanuts. It is 5.hard and really fun.

This is a sport climbing crag. The gentleman that posted that this is a drytooling crag knew of the first ascensionists but has not made an effort to contact them and ask their permission to rebolt, deface, and rename their routes. What is more disturbing is the publication of small guide in a local tourist rag with a large distribution. He has already broken several key holds that have changed the character of the climbs forever. These are difficult mossy, and delicate climbs which require a gentle touch. Feb 26, 2015
The redevelopment of these routes took place due to the fact that the bolts are bad - as in very bad. And the routes (and bolts) are covered in moss.

I did publish a miniguide, but the area had been used for drytooling for several years prior to the publication. AAJ Editor Kelly Cordes drytooled in this area in the late nineties, and it's very likely that Steve House did as well, amongst others...

No holds have been removed or broken by drytooling. The holds required to drytool on this crag are primarily pockets and thin cracks. A large loose block was trundled during the cleaning, but there is no way that it was a "key" hold. Instead it was a death block. And we spent hours upon hours upon hours removing moss. I probably personally removed 40-50lbs of dirt from the left-hand crack.

The left hand crack was essentially unclimbable prior to the dirt removal project. And while the route was climbed in the past, it was likely untouched for 20-years. There was a six foot tall "slope" of mud in the middle of the route that covered the crack and all holds, with large amounts of moss on both sides. The crack is in a natural drainage and mud appears to pour down the crack during and after every storm.

I'll leave it to the community to decide, but I have posted two pictures here that show the types of things we encountered and the reason we felt the toproped drytooling was appropriate. Please see both exhibits A and B.







I was honestly shocked and saddened to find out that someone was upset about people drytooling on this crag. I have been climbing in this area for over twenty years, know literally hundreds of local climbers and have talked about drytooling at the area a lot. I've never seen anyone on the crag (summer or winter) and those who have been on it n the past have stated to me and to others that have drytooled there that this was a good use for the crag. The combination of the moss, the death bolts and the history of people drytooling at the crag lead me to believe that no one would really care if someone published a miniguide to the area.

Lastly, I would like to note that that route on the right is approximately 11b. It has been lead by several people, many of which I spoke to about drytooling at the crag. Though leading the route today on the bolts as they are is dangerous. If you choose to lead here, whether on sport or as a drytooling route, I would urge you to toprope until the bolts are replaced by someone who has a solid knowledge of bolting technique.

We had planned to replace all the bolts on the crag as part of our cleanup effort, but it's not really worth it to do it for sport climbing. If the community decides that drytooling is a reasonable use of this crag, we will finish the project and replace the bolts.

And if the community believes that I was wrong in publishing a miniguide and that drytooling is a poor use of this crag, I will happily edit my original post and identify this as a sport climbing only crag...

Jason Apr 15, 2015
FYI-the primary developer and first ascensionist of most of the routes in this area was Jason Henrie. I climbed an .11a route in 2000 that he had put up at the Shuksan crag. At the time, it was the only fully bolted route on the wall. Jason used to have a guide that was available (and I used to own it) at REI and the log-house-looking gear shop that used to be in Bellingham. Other locals who would be in the know on history include Greg Heffron and Chris Taylor (though I'm not sure if either are still around). Aug 1, 2016

More About Shuksan Crag

Printer-Friendly
What's New
Guidebooks (1)

All Photos Within Shuksan Crag (11)

Most Popular · Newest · Random